The San Fernando Valley is frequently a punchline, but it’s clear that L.A.’s awkward, less attractive sibling features plenty of great eating. Here are five dishes that justify the drive over the hill.
Brent’s Deli - Northridge - Black Pastrami Reuben
Brent’s and Langer’s both have their supporters as the top deli in Los Angeles. It’s certainly no worse than #2 on my shortlist (two delis long), and is without a doubt worth a trip to the heart of the West Valley. The Black Pastrami Reuben is served on grilled rye with melted Swiss, hot sauerkraut and Russian dressing. The thin-sliced pile of beef is lean and subtly spicy and the accoutrements help to create an incredible balance. Brent’s Reuben comes with definitive containers of cole slaw and potato salad.
Bua Siam – North Hollywood - Thai Spaghetti with Bay Leaf Stew
Don’t let the dingy North Hollywood strip mall dissuade you. Bua Siam serves some of the most compelling northern Thai food in Los Angeles. Just like at Jitlada and a couple other top Thai restaurants in town, the most compelling dishes are listed on the back of Bua Siam’s menu, including Thai Spaghetti with Bay Leaf Stew. For one of my longtime favorites, rice noodles arrive blanketed with chopped greens, cinnamon-like cassia buds and a mildly spicy curry broth.
It’s All Good House of Kabab - Reseda - Biryani
“We close at 7, so if you want food, get here in ten minutes.” It was 6:45, so we placed our order, hit the gas and raced up the 101 to reach It’s All Good House of Kebab in time… As you can tell, we reached Medhi Ghasemil’s Persian restaurant in time, The weekend-only biryani features a heap of cinnamon-dusted ground lamb, which is luscious and completely devastating when encased in buttery, pull-apart wheat flatbread.
Priyani – Northridge - Lampreis
The Sri Lankan menu was a jumble that didn’t provide much direction, but since we were eating at the tail end of a forgotten Northridge strip mall, we didn’t mind. Co-owner Nihal Dissanayake recommended lampreis, a banana leaf-wrapped mound of rice topped with distinct heaps of paprika, well-seasoned onion-rich chicken and intensely-flavored caramelized eggplant. The flavors were uniquely delicious, and when combined, created culinary fireworks.
Sako’s Mediterranean Cuisine – Reseda - Iskender Kebab
Sako’s Mediterranean Cuisine is one of the only restaurants recognized as Turkish in Los Angeles, and based on my lunch, that’s a shame. Sako’s Special (aka Iskender) combines cuts of pita that are piled with browned shavings of doner kebab and spicy tomato sauce. The meat is surrounded by a sweetened moat of tangy yogurt. Sensational.
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If you have a favorite San Fernando Valley dish that wasn’t listed, please let us know.
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- It’s All Good House of Kabab - Reseda, CA – June 20, 2009
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- Sri Siam Café – North Hollywood, CA – February 11, 2010
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yum, I’ve had three of five, need to get the other two.
Well, at the Boneyard Bistro, the Jambalaya risotto that accompanies the catfish entree is worthy of your list. Also, the shrimp entree is very high on my list.
Also, that goat cheese relleno at Senor Fred is really good - had it again last night as accompaniment to a very tasty lamb shank.
And the short ribs at Max are also really good.
There are a lot more than five great dishes in the Valley. This is just a starting point.
Boneyard is about to get a full-scale review. Unfortunately, I haven’t had their jambalaya, catfish or shrimp.
That goat cheese relleno sounds good. Definitely want to get to Senor Fred after your rave review.
Speaking of Boneyard, just the other day I had the best patty melt of my life there for $20. I still dream about it.
The valley is an under-appreciated culinary hotbed, although I don’t get there as often as I’d like. That Thai spaghetti looks like it could easily become one of my favorite dishes.