California

A16: Soulful Italian Cooking Near San Francisco’s Marina

By Joshua Lurie | July 26, 2006 0 comments
A16: Soulful Italian Cooking Near San Francisco’s Marina
A16
2355 Chestnut Street
San Francisco, CA 94123
415 771 2216
View Web Site

Date of Visit: July 23, 2006


A16, named for the Italian autostrada that runs between Naples and Canosa, occupies a long, thin space in the trendy Marina neighborhood. There’s a small wine bar up front, with co-owner Shelley Lindgren’s hand-picked wines listed by the glass on a chalkboard. Down a corridor, past the kitchen, sits an airy dining room. Chef Nate Appleman contributes soulful Italian cooking.
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Since everything on the menu sounded good, we split several dishes. First up: this summery arugula salad with juicy white nectarines, cuts of green olive, walnuts and shaved pecorino.
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Too many olives isn’t enough, so we devoured this marinated dish of plump san remos and castelvetranos.
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This startlingly good salsiccia pizza was topped with spring onions, mozzarella, chunks of fennel sausage, garlic, and chives. This pizza was as good as it gets, with a soft, blistered crust that held up under the weight of the terrific toppings, and it wasn’t dry in the least. The sausage was sensational, juicy, with a subtle kick.
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These succulent chicken meatballs were crisp outside, served with a tangy giardiniera (vegetables from the garden) that contained pickled carrot slices, onions, and cauliflower.
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This was a simple plate of spaghetti with Manila clams, borlotti beans, stewed cherry tomatoes and garlic. The clams were briny and plump. The plate could have done without the pinto-like borlotti beans, but it was worth ordering.
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This spiedino (skewer) of pork was partnered with an alternately sweet and bitter salad of wild arugula, pinenuts, currants and garlic. The pork was chewy and salty, to good effect.
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At A16, each entrée comes with a choice of side dish. These small roasted cobs of corn came brushed with olive oil and black pepper, which accentuated the natural sweetness of this summer veggie.
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These braised green beans would do a Southern cook proud, since they’re tender and infused with the delicious flavor of all the shredded pork.

Related Categories: California, Italian, Northern California, Pizza Parlor, San Francisco

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