Jerry Mears’ classic New England seafood shack, Abbott’s Lobster in the Rough, doesn’t actually rough up their seafood. According to my step-mom Jane, who spent her formative summers eating at seafood shacks in Maine, “Seafood in the rough” is caught close by and served on paper plates. It’s very casual—no fancy airs. In Maine, it meant lobster rolls in a napkin and steamers in a paper bowl.” That’s just what it meant at Abbott’s Lobster in the Rough.

A huge line led to the window where I ordered.

I took the food out back, to a pier overlooking the water and the boat-filled marina. It was a great day out, with scenic views and sunny skies.

The hot lobster roll could not have been better. The cooks pulled all the meat from a 1¼ lb. lobster and piled it onto a grilled hamburger bun. The roll came served with a little dish of melted butter.

I drizzled some butter over the roll, and it was sensational, rich, with fantastically fresh lobster. I could have eaten five rolls.

The crab roll was similar, but not as sweet or flavorful as lobster. The cole slaw was solid since it avoided using mayo. The only thing that didn’t hit was the corn on the cob, which was gray.

Abbott’s also serves lobster and crab salad rolls, which feature my nemesis – mayo, so I wasn’t about to order those. There’s also clam chowder, lobster bisque and steamed lobster dinners, but it’s hard to imagine ordering anything but those hot rolls.

Open Memorial Day to Labor Day: Noon – 9 PM