My father, brother and I planned to eat at three Hill Country barbecue restaurants in a row, but stop two had seemingly shut down. No problem. On our windy two-line drive west, we passed through a small town about every 15 minutes. One of them was bound to have decent barbecue. We entered Bertram and my father spotted a tan brick building that read “Bertram Smoke Haus.” He said, “Why don’t we at least take a look.” “Take a look” can only mean one thing in my family: Let’s eat.
Stan told us he’s in charge of the brisket. His son and nephew handle award winning ribs and chicken. Stan cooks the brisket for 10 hours out in the open, creating a smoke ring, then 2-4 hours more in foil, to retain moisture. He said the briskets weigh 12-15 pounds, and cook down to 8-10 pounds.
Bertram buys their terrific pork sausage from Taylor Meat Company, which has been around for over a century. The gritty dark sausages are seasoned with Cajun spices and green onion. They’re cooked for two hours out in the open, then finished for 1.5 hours in foil. Stan said the longer they cook the sausages, the spicier they get, but cook them too long and most customers can’t handle the heat.
Our sides consisted of mesquite-smoked corn on the cob and country potatoes – sliced baked potato with onions and bell pepper in gravy.
Stan said his steaks are also good, grilled out back, never touching gas. He buys ribeyes from Express Meats in Austin, then hand cuts them.
After our meal, we asked Stan for a tour. Out back, Iron Star Hall features a stage that hosts country musicians, and a beer hall with picnic tables.
On the drive from Austin, we commented that it’s been five years since the last Texas Monthly Top 50 Barbecue list. As if on cue, Stan said that Texas Monthly just visited and he was told Bertram Smoke Haus will make the Top 50 in the June 2008 issue. Stan said he recently received a follow-up phone call, to ask him a series of questions, which seems to indicate Bertram will appear in the Top 10, complete with an article in Texas Monthly. After our outstanding experience, we’re all convinced the impending accolade is well deserved.
Blog Comments
charles reinhart company
March 19, 2010 at 1:00 AM
[…] pop-up name. A paper sculptor and artist, he is a partner in Librum Artifex, the company that …Food GPS Bertram Smoke Haus Bertram, TX May 17, 2008Bertram buys their terrific pork sausage from Taylor Meat Company, which has been around for over a […]
candice
October 29, 2008 at 2:19 PM
you should have tried the slaw- it is awesome!