Ha Noi

Bun Cha Hang Manh – Ha Noi, Vietnam – Friday, May 20, 2005

By Joshua Lurie | June 15, 2005 0 comments
Bun Cha Hang Manh – Ha Noi, Vietnam – Friday, May 20, 2005
Bun Cha Hang Manh
1 Hang Manh
Ha Noi, Vietnam
8.285022

asia-2005-volume-2-045.jpg When I arrived at 8:45 AM, a woman was using metal tongs to pluck cha gio from three bubbling woks and place them on trays.

asia-2005-volume-2-027.jpg Easily over 500 cha gio (fried imperial rolls) were stacked on aluminum trays and set on blue plastic kiddie stools. I asked for one order of cha gio and one order of bun cha. A woman sorting greens off to the side said, “No buy. Eleven,” and pointed to the wall-hanging clock. Thwarted.

After doing my tourist duties, checking out Ho Chi Minh’s Presidential Palace, House on Stilts, and Museum, I returned to Bun Cha Hang Manh by taxi at 10:50, in a blinding rainstorm.

asia-2005-volume-2-028.jpg The same woman was frying cha gio in one wok, lot leaf-wrapped pork patties in the other two woks. Even though it wasn’t quite 11, one of the women took pity on me and led me upstairs, to a small room with six tables.

asia-2005-volume-2-040.jpg Each table was already set with plates of rice vermicelli, mint, sprouts and greens, a bowl of marinated green papaya slices, bowls of fish sauce, chopped garlic and sliced orange chilies.

asia-2005-volume-2-042.jpg I ordered bun cha and cha gio, the only two dishes available. The cha gio were crispy outside, juicy inside, filled with glass noodles, pork, crab, wood-ear mushrooms and onions. Each roll was two inches in diameter and unbelievably delicious. And this wasn’t even the restaurant’s specialty.

asia-2005-volume-2-041.jpg Bun Cha is the dish the restaurant’s named after; Hang Manh is the street. Bun [pronounced BOON] cha is a bowl of charcoal-grilled strips of tender pork belly, little pork patties and the pork patties wrapped in lot leaves. The meat was all fantastically juicy, since the porcine heap sat in a dark broth.

For the whole meal, easily a pound and a half of fresh, flavorful food, I was charged a paltry 30000 Dong, less than $2. Wow!

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