“I’m not just the president, I’m also a client.” So said Cy Sperling in his famously atrocious 1980s Hair Club For Men Commercial. We’re by no means the President of Tasting Table, or even the Editor, but we do contribute regularly to the newsletter, and L.A. Editor Willy Blackmore’s 2011 article, SLO Down, eventually led us to Dorn’s Breakers Cafe. The seafood focused restaurant dates to 1942 and overlooks the wind-whipped, mist-shrouded Pacific Ocean and imposing Morro Rock, home to majestic Peregrine falcons.

We started with a cup of thick, pepper dusted Clam Chowder ($4.25), rich and hearty, which they served with some warm house-baked sourdough and butter.

The Soup of the Day ($4) was a second chowder, Manhattan clam, which was tomato based and much lighter, allowing the clams to shine more.

Oysters ($12) were deep fried Washington state bivalves with thick, crunchy sheathes, served with cocktail and tartar sauces, pretty good fries and red cabbage slaw.

Still, it was the Calamari Sandwich ($11) that made the biggest impression. The breaded and sautéed cape came from a massive Humboldt variety. It was nice and tender in its buttery bath, served on more sourdough with a crunchy slice of raw red onion, romaine, tomato and tartar sauce. We subbed steamed vegetables for fries.

Dorn’s Breakers Cafe bordered on kitschy, but crept over that fine line to charming thanks to its comforting seafood and setting, which rises above the touristy joints of the Embarcadero.