“That’s not fat.” Our server was trying to convince us that the white streaks that lined the raw meat were just different colored muscles. We weren’t buying it, but the results, which sizzled to a crisp on the stainless steel, tabletop grill, was convincing in a different right. Byul Gobchang, a restaurant with star and moon imagery in a Koreatown strip mall, specializes in grilled cow intestines, but they also offer a variety of more muscular cuts, plus pig parts that contribute to combo platters like neukgansal, which arrived in rosy, fat-rimmed sheets that resembled pork neck. However, our server ensured us that the meat comes from below the pig’s short ribs. This was the night’s best-seasoned meat, rich, with molten grease that coated the roof of my mouth and formed easy bites after our attentive servers scissor-cut the meat. Byul Gobchang offers a pair of dipping sauces: soy with spicy mashed radish, scallions and jalapeno; and a more viscous, sweeter sauce, neither necessary in this case.

Dose of Vitamin P spotlights my favorite pork dish from the previous week.