Slowly but surely, Melrose Avenue is amassing culinary points of interest, and not just west of Fairfax (Lucques, ink.) or east of La Brea (Mozza, Hatfield’s, Providence). Collier Ulrich jumped on board the gourmet sandwich wagon train earlier this year with Marcona, hiring chef Matthew Moss to help deliver his eclectic vision.
We arrived at Marcona to the classic ’80s sounds of Huey Lewis and The News. I asked the people behind the counter whether we should order the Biscuit Melt and soup or Lomo sandwich. The man said to go with Lomo ($10.50), saying, “The flavor explodes in your mouth. You’ll love it.” We’re inclined to stop at “like,” but it was a solid sandwich.
Marcona apparently cooks pulled pork at three points throughout three days using “lomo” spicing,” harissa vinaigrette with parsley and lemon. They finish the meat on a flat top, until it becomes crusty. Accompaniments include date mostarda (date and Dijon), crunchy parsnips, punchy onions, sharp Manchego shavings and plenty of arugula, all sandwiched between soft ciabatta. Marcona’s lomo sandwich came with a dill pickle spear and a chorus of “Heart and Soul.”
Dose of Vitamin P spotlights my favorite pork dish from the previous week.








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