Palate Food + Wine chef-owner Octavio Becerra and executive chef Jason Mattick have already set the standard for market-driven cuisine in Glendale. Last month, they continued to raise the stakes by introducing “Offal Good” in their space beneath a wine storage facility on Brand Boulevard. Their three-item nose-to-tail menu is available Wednesday nights in the wine bar.

During my recent visit, Palate offered three tempting choices: chicken hearts with rosemary skewers and balsamic-red onion marmalade; grilled lamb liver with curry butter, arugula, pickled turnips and lentil hummus; and braised pork cheeks with Brussels sprouts, celery root and kumquat-bacon-pistachio relish. Of course, since this is Dose of Vitamin P, the choice was obvious.

The braised pork cheeks ($9) rested in a pool of oil and delivered waves of flavor. A generous chunk of fork-tender hog meat offered short rib-like consistency. Considering several bites involved shreds of cheek AND chunks of bacon, this was a seriously rich dish. Sliced kumquats and thin-shaved sprouts added just enough acidity and bitterness to help tilt the see saw, not this dish achieved true balance.

12/11/13 Update: Palate Food + Wine is no longer open for business.

Dose of Vitamin P spotlights my favorite pork dish from the previous week.