Mark Isreal may be “difficult,” as evidenced by his appearance on Throwdown With Bobby Flay, but his Doughnut Plant on Manhattan’s Lower East Side produces innovative donuts using the best ingredients of the season. Grandfather Herman Isreal began baking in 1910. That gives the Isreals almost 100 years of pastry experience. This pedigree no doubt contributes to the stellar results.

Isreal clearly knows how to entice customers. Multiple displays showcase his doughnuts. It was tempting to order a dozen doughnuts, but with Pepe’s a train ride away, we had to stay strong. Isreal creates eight core varieties and four more seasonal selections. No matter the flavor, he avoids trans fats, preservatives, artificial flavors and eggs, meaning his doughnuts aren’t as leaden as lesser versions.

Isreal charges $2.25 for a Glazed Doughnut and $2.75 for a Jelly or Cream Filled, which might seem like a princely sum for a doughnut. Given the quality, it’s still a high value proposition. We split two airy squares: Coconut Glaze with Coconut Cream and Vanilla Bean Glaze with Strawberry Jelly. Isreal must be some sort of pastry wizard. How else to explain square, hollow doughnuts piped with jelly and custard on every edge.

Isreal’s Cake Doughnuts ($1.75) are less costly, but no less impressive. We went old school for his Tres Leches Cake, a moist sendup of a Latin specialty involving evaporated milk, condensed milk, and cream. Cashew wasn’t quite as supple, but it did feature fresh roasted cashews.

It’s rarely worth eating doughnuts since they’re always so heavy and don’t normally deliver. Thankfully we have premium options like Doughnut Plant that guarantee quality, flavor and none of the nasty aftermath.