Danny Wilser and Robert Merryman opened Ella’s in July 1990, naming their “Neo Classical American” restaurant for Mister Wilser’s great aunt. After building a dedicated following, cousins Andy and Matt Skov bought Ella’s in January 2006 and retained the eatery’s key elements. Ella’s seasonal menu still changes weekly, and everything is still prepared in-house daily, including all the baked goods.

We were hoping to start with Ella’s fresh-baked sticky buns, but thanks to the bun-loving brunch crowd, they already sold out. Instead, we split a warm buttermilk biscuit, a massive baked good that was well-intentioned, but still benefited from a few streaks of whipped butter.

Another biscuit-bolsterer was this crock of fresh strawberry preserves, shown with a summery table setting. I didn’t know they grew pineapples this small.

There was the option to order just one or two buttermilk pancakes, but my father went all-in, ordering the triple ($8.75). A single would have been plenty; they were tangy and subtly sweet, but heavy.

Country Style Sausage ($3.75) patties were seasoned with herbs, craggy and luscious.

I was tempted by the Brandied Orange French Toast, until I turned to my right and saw the future: an open-faced omelette with bacon, cherry tomatoes, grilled corn, fresh thyme and gouda ($11.50). The juicy tomatoes were of the moment, there was plenty of smoky bacon, and the fresh-cut corn kernels added a sweet topper.

Ella’s bakes five varieties of bread daily - White, Wheat, Sourdough Rye, Honey Oat Raisin and Buttermilk Biscuit. I chose honey oat raisin, which was studded with golden raisins and featured a supple oat-lined crust.

The Fresh Fruit Plate ($6.50) wasn’t just pretty to look at - a sunburst of color - but the blueberries, strawberries, and slices of kiwi, cantaloupe, watermelon, honeydew, pineapple and papaya were also all at the peak of ripeness.

This moist coffee cake ($2.25) was studded with poppyseeds and featured a winning streussel cap.

Even my beverage had a nice twist. Ginger Orange Juice Punch ($3.50) hosted a subtle bite.

I ate breakfast at Ella’s when Wilser and Merryman were still in charge. I remember liking my meal, but I actually preferred my Skov-directed experience. Maybe it was the day’s selection. Maybe it was the company. Whatever the reason, it’s clear Ella’s can still justify the long waits.

Hours:
BREAKFAST Monday - Friday 7:00 - 11:30 am
LUNCH Monday - Friday 11:30 am - 3:00 pm
BRUNCH Saturday - Sunday 8:30 - 2:00 pm

Other San Francisco reviews on Food GPS:
the house (August 5, 2007)
Let’s Be Frank (August 5, 2007)
Jai Yun (August 4, 2007)
Bocadillos (August 3, 2007)
Dosa (August 2, 2007)
A16 (August 2, 2007)
Out The Door (August 1, 2007)
XOX Truffles (July 14, 2007)
The Blue Plate (July 14, 2007)
La Boulange de Polk (August 4 & August 5, 2007)
Burma Superstar (July 14, 2007)

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This entry is filed under American, Breakfast, California, Northern California, San Francisco.