Ford’s Filling Station – Culver City, CA – November 2, 2006
Posted November 16, 2006 at 10:45 am
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My first visit to this spacious gastropub in now-trendy Culver City should have happened sooner. It turned out to be a nice surprise for my 30th Birthday dinner. Chef Benjamin Ford clearly deserves notice for his skills in the kitchen, not just for being the son of Indiana Jones. Ford previously teamed with Govind Armstrong at Chadwick. His current concept revolves around generous portions of seasonal comfort food.

Instead of the standard loaf of sliced French bread with butter, Ford’s Filling Station treats diners to warm, butter-brushed sticks of soft bread.

Turns out flatbread is just a fancy word for misshapen pizza. I also discovered the gastropub produces a stellar version of said bread. The thin crust came topped with an atypical but rewarding combination of plump shrimp, white bean hummus, and caramelized onions. There were some unnecessary microgreens, but they were easily brushed aside.

The metal dish of “fish and chips” featured battered slabs of fresh cod and shrimp, a fried asparagus spear and potato wedge, plus pickled carrots. There was a tangy dish of tartar sauce in the center for dipping. While greasy, the batter had good flavor. It was obvious the oil had been changed recently.

Although I was tempted by the lamb loin with bruleed figs, I can’t resist ordering seafood for special occasions. Four massive diver scallops were caramelized but not overcooked, served atop a silky cauliflower puree, studded with chunks of cauliflower florets. Roasted Brussels sprouts added a nice textural contrast, and the blood orange vinaigrette contributed a citrus kick. Again, I could have done without the microgreens.

There were some tantalizing sides. We selected roasted beets (including beet greens), which came topped with creamy burrata and a sprinkling of crushed hazelnuts.

The desserts were a weak link. There were only three options: pumpkin cheesecake, chocolate pot de crème, and apple spice cake. Thankfully, the apple spice cake was better than it sounded, more like a buttery bread pudding, served hot, dusted with brown sugar and cinnamon, and topped with a portion of whipped cream that was way too large to be described as a dollop.
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