Within hours of landing in Singapore, I set out for the locally famous Tai Hwa Pork Noodle. According to a five year old Gourmet issue, I expected to find the restaurant in Marina Square food court. Sadly, a mall security guard informed me that Tai Hwa was no more. Thankfully, I discovered local food maven Makansutra and his guide to Singapore restaurants. He revealed the new location: off North Bridge Road in an eating house food stall.

Behind the counter, the Tai Hwa Pork Noodle noodle master ladled noodle bowls for a long line of customers. He smiled and greeted each person. When I finally reached the head of the line, they gave me three choices: soup or dry; spicy or not; and thin, broad or rice noodles. I went broad, spicy, and dry.

He tossed homemade, fettuccini-like noodles in a bowl of spicy vinegar-chili sauce and topped with an array of pig parts: ground pork, grilled slices of pork, a pork meatball, crispy bits of fried pig skin, funky sliced pork liver, and for a dollar extra, three pork wontons. Only then did my bill reach S$5. The hog, mixed with that great sauce, top noodles, and a slice of dried fish, formed a sensational bowl of food.

I washed it down with a can of Kickapoo Joy Juice, a soda I never thought I’d find internationally.