Interview: chef Abram Bissell (The NoMad)

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Chef New York City

INTERVIEW CONTINUED FROM PREVIOUS PAGE

Why do you think your chicken’s the dish that sells the most?

I think that’s what people want. People want food that’s delicious but approachable. You want to understand what it is when you eat it and feel like you’re not overly challenged by the flavor combination. The chicken’s what people want. They want something simple and approachable. It is very decadent. It’s very rich. When we first opened, are people going to take to a whole chicken for two? There are so many people trying to do that. It’s exactly what people wanted. We’ve become known as the restaurant that serves whole roasted chicken.

I’ve definitely seen photos of it. What do you look for when you’re hiring somebody to work in your kitchen?

Passion. Excitement. Dedication. Endurance.

Do you test them before you hire them?

Yeah. We always have stages cook in the kitchen, so they’ll spend the day with us and always cook one dish, depending on what position they’re applying for. We do always start from the bottom and work up, no matter what your experience is. You’re always starting on garde manger and working your way up.

Is there anything you don’t enjoy eating?

Canned tuna, and I don’t know why, it just doesn’t work for me. And I never mean it in an arrogant way, I just can’t do it.

Does it matter if it’s packed in water or oil?

It’s much better if it’s packed in oil, but I still prefer not to eat it.

What was the last meal you cooked at home?

We got a whole bunch of spring peas from the market before I left, and I made casserole for my wife and daughter: English peas, ground turkey, garganelli. I have a two-year-old daughter.

Is it hard for you to find balance?

It is. It is very hard to find balance.

What do you do to attempt to find balance?

You just have to stay firm to say it’s enough. You have to take breaks. You have to force yourself. If it means getting away or taking a couple days off with family, going out to eat, going to different restaurants, experiencing food, is always a really important part to survive in the restaurant world.

Address: 1170 Broadway, New York, NY 10001
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Joshua Lurie

Joshua Lurie founded FoodGPS in 2005. Read about him here.

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