“We close at 7, so if you want food, get here in ten minutes.” It was 6:45, so we placed our order, hit the gas and raced up the 101 to reach It’s All Good House of Kebab in time. Two weeks ago, I’d never even heard of this Persian restaurant. After reading Sara Dickerman’s recent article about Persian food in NY Times Travel section, it was suddenly absolutely vital to get to Reseda before closing time. It’s funny how that works. Anyway, we reached It’s All Good just in time, but the name didn’t do the food justice.

Medhi Ghasemil has owned this strip mall restaurant for 10 years. Before that, it was called It’s All Good Mediterranean Greek for another decade. Ghasemil hails from Isfahan, Iran, so he made sure to feature photos of his hometown, along with decorative weaponry and a caged canary.

The reason we raced to Reseda was for the weekend-only biryani. The heap of cinnamon-dusted ground lamb was luscious and completely devastating when encased in buttery, pull-apart wheat flatbread.

To get a sense of the restaurant’s regular offerings, we ordered shish kebab, which was char-grilled but still juicy, plated with grilled tomatoes and onions on fluffy saffron-dusted basmati rice.

It’s All Good House of Kebab delivered one of my favorite Persian meals to date, and it was a rush job. I’m looking forward to returning to Reseda during the day and taking my time.