Barbecue Keaton’s – Cleveland, NC – Friday, May 19, 2006
2 comments
Keaton’s has been located on the same desolate stretch of Woodleaf Road since 1953. Just when you think you must have overshot it, you’re almost there.
Burette Walker Keaton, better known as B.W., founded Keaton’s in 1953. After his passing in 1989, it took his nephew Lefty two years to reopen the establishment. Happily, the second generation kept using B.W.’s recipes.
I made sure to leave my firearm at home; I didn’t want to be denied that wondrous chicken.
Keaton’s has a simple dining room. Not that it matters. Once the chicken hits the table, life’s a delicious blur.
Keaton’s barbecued fried chicken comes either mild or spicy. This breast and wing were spicy, which added a comfortable heat. The chicken was tremendous, pan-fried then dipped in BBQ sauce, caramelizing the skin and locking in the meat’s juices. These baked beans were just fine, but I didn’t drive to rural North Carolina to eat beans.
This mildly-spiced thigh and drumstick were especially luscious, due to their naturally higher fat content. The square of macaroni & cheese featured a chewy crust and folds of yellow cheddar.
Keaton’s offers several dessert options, including many variations on “yum yum.” This is cherry yum yum, a graham cracker crust topped with a half-inch layer of cream cheese, topped with candied cherries, served cold. It was fine, but hardly spectacular. You’d be better off ordering more chicken instead.
Yet again, I found myself following Jane and Michael Stern’s gastro-path. Keaton’s was far from the first terrific regional restaurant they led me to. I’ve been a Roadfood adherent for over 10 years.
Hours:
Wednesday – Saturday: 11 AM – 2 PM, 5 PM – 9 PM
Article:
Find Food
This extraordinary restaurant may cease to exist within the year. My wife and I ate here in mid-february. We were talking to the grandson of BW Keaton and he said business is in bad shape because of the economy. So much so, that they can’t afford to keep the phone turned on, so customers can’t use credit cards. They also find themselves without the money to buy provisions, so, as was the case when we ate there, they couldn’t afford to have pork shoulders for those customers that didn’t want chicken. Please help to support wonderful places like Keaton’s BBQ.
Rob,
That’s terrible news. If Keaton’s goes out of business, the world will be a less interesting place to eat. I certainly hope that the local customers rally to support such a terrific restaurant.