It was a sweltering day in the San Gabriel foothills, and the mammoth silver oven at the back of Koko’s Bakery was at full blast, but the Armenian baked goods were so good that it didn’t matter.

Northeast Pasadena features a treasure trove of Armenian, Syrian and Lebanese eateries. This particular spot is situated next to the intriguing Torino Sandwiches, in a charming timeworn building. Krikor “Koko” Saghbazarian and wife Houri opened their bakery in 1991. Koko’s grandfather was a baker in Armenia who was forced to escape to Lebanon during the genocide. Koko and his wife moved to Boston, where son Michael was born, then proceeded to Pasadena to continue his craft.

A dry-erase board lists 14 styles of savory Armenian breads and pies, including spicy cheese, spinach, olive or lahmajune (lean ground beef or mushroom).

The Saghbazarians offer two varieties of Armenian baked goods that I’ve never encountered before. Open Cheese ($2.50) was a pull-part flatbread topped with mild white Armenian cheese, ground mint and red pepper flakes. There may not be a single Los Angeles pizzeria that produces such a well-balanced crust, not too puffy, not at all dry, with just the right amount of bite.

This Soujouk pie combined white cheese, red pepper flakes and chewy cuts of spicy Armenian sausage known as soujouk – beef sausage flavored with garlic powder and paprika – purchased from nearby Garo’s Basturma. Terrific.

Here’s a close-up view into the pastry’s soul, paprika-stained sausage, cheese and red pepper flakes.

Koko fills two display cases with what Michael describes as “Armenian biscotti.” The cookies ($6 per pound) aren’t too sweet, each with a distinct shape and flavor.

Koko normally pulls steaming lahmajunes from the oven at 12:30 PM, so best time your visit with that momentous event. There are three other stellar Middle Eastern bakeries in Los Angeles, and I’ve been to those places many more times, but Koko’s Bakery sure seems to belong in the upper tier.

Open Monday through Saturday until 6 PM