When Korea-based KyoChon Chicken opened a branch in Koreatown in 2007, the idea of eating at a 1000-link fried chicken chain seemed about as appealing as funneling a quart of Drano. Still, I couldn’t shake Jonathan Gold’s tantalizing description in LA Weekly. Could KyoChon really be serving a dynamic new preparation of fried poultry? Turns out they are.

KyoChon Chicken first opened in Korea in March 1991, and just twelve years later surpassed the 1000 branch benchmark. The company landed Stateside in early 2007, in Queens, followed locally by locations in K-town, Torrance and Rowland Heights.

The restaurant’s corner space in Serrano Marketplace is glass fronted and well lit, with high decibel Korean pop music. A single red and orange wall features KyoChon slogans promising “the most friendly and humanly touching chicken franchise for everyone,” “the most upscale taste and service” and a “greater future.” The wall over-promised about the service, but KyoChon certainly delivers upscale taste. As for the future, who knows.

Unlike American fast food restaurants, KyoChon offers table service. While we ate dinner, the flat screen TV showed a puzzling Korean news program that involved raw chickens, live cows and men in HAZMAT suits.

KyoChon fried chicken comes in two flavors: Garlic Soy Sauce and Hot Sweet Sauce. They sell wings and sticks, but the best way to experience the bird is by ordering a whole chicken ($17.99). The cooks hacked the chicken into two-inch chunks with total disregard for joint placement. The luscious meat was jacketed with a thin, crispy sheathe. The frying process fused the garlic soy sauce into the skin, and since the chicken isn’t battered, melts away the succulent skin’s fat.

Every dish comes with a side of DIY cole slaw, shredded cabbage lashed with a criss-cross pattern of chile sauce and mayo.

KyoChon sells four high-value combo meals. We split an order of A ($14.99), either 8 wings or 4 sticks with chicken bulgogi rice or chicken fried rice + one soda. The four spicy drumsticks had some nice heat, tempered by whatever makes the sauce “sweet.”

With our combo meal, we went with chicken bulgogi rice, pulled pieces of dark meat tossed with chile paste, cabbage and carrots. This dish had a nice kick.

With the check, we each received a dish of chocolate soft serve ice cream. On a previous visit, we had the option to order the ice cream in a cone. This time, we got the last three servings, so we were thankful to even get a taste.

Considering KyoChon is so widespread, and that most staff members seem to be in their teens, it’s incredible the chicken’s quality level remains so high. Given the big flavors and steady crowds, I fully expect the concept to multiply throughout Southern California.

Also located at:
2515 Torrance Boulevard
Torrance, CA 90503
310 320 9299

18180 Colima Road
Rowland Heights, CA 91748
626 965 2449

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1. TonyC, October 17, 2008:

   i wonder if the Rowland Heights Kyochon tastes d’frent from Ktown one.. hmm.. like the Buena Park’s BBQ Chicken’s s’posedly sooo much better than Ktown’s. RIGHT.

2. donna, March 4, 2010:

   Tried going to the one in Rowland Heights yesterday, but it wasn’t there! What happened to it?

3. Joshua Lurie, March 4, 2010:

   Strange. The last time I ate at Java Spice, which is in the same strip mall, KyoChon was still going strong.

This entry is filed under California, Eastside, Korean, Los Angeles, Southern California.