The affable, white-haired Garcia Brothers run this strip mall seafood shack northwest of Calle Ocho, an establishment so bare bones that there are no seats, just a jagged blue counter to stand and eat. They don’t even bother with printed menus, opting for an overhead version. On the south end of the room, a display case features fresh seafood.  The decorative highlight: a clock that reads WELCOME ABOARD. Lucky for the customers who uncomfortably “dine” at La Camaronera, the Garcia Brothers have devoted more thought into how to prepare local seafood.

I kicked things off with three Bollitos de Carita, also known as hushpuppies, a dime apiece. The misshapen, golden fritters were pillowy and clearly fried in fresh oil, a world apart from the dense musket balls I used to choke down at Tennessee catfish parlors.

The only dish that didn’t impress me was the Sopa de Cherna ($2.50) – grouper soup – a yellow broth containing chunks of overcooked fish and Progresso-level noodles. The broth had too much of an oceanic funk for my taste.

For my main course, I ordered Camarones Empanizados ($10), lightly breaded and expertly fried jumbo shrimp.  The plate came with arroz con pescado (yellow rice with “fish bits”) and tostones (flattened and fried unripened plantains). The fish bits were overcooked but flavorful grouper chunks.

Other interesting menu options included Huevas Fritas (Fried Roe), Muela de Cangrejo Moro (Stone Crab), Rueda de Cherna (Sliced Fried Grouper), Pescado Entero Frito (Whole Fried Fish), Langosta Empanizada (Breaded Lobster). Next time.

For dessert, I asked in Spanish (the only language spoken) whether the flan de leche was prepared in house, and the counterman responded in the affirmative, but I caught him pulling a plastic package from the fridge and canceled my order. It was for the best. I was already on high from gorging on oceanic comfort food, and Thanksgiving dinner was only hours away.

Hours:
Monday – Saturday: 8 AM – 5:30 PM
Sunday: 10 AM – 4 PM

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2. L.C.’s Roti Shop – North Miami, FL – November 24, 2007
3. El Palacio de los Jugos: Building on Palatial Juice in Miami
4. Captain Jim Hanson’s Seafood Market and Restaurant – North Miami, FL – December 29, 2005
5. Louie’s Backyard – Key West, FL – November 23, 2007

This entry is filed under Florida, Seafood.