It’s been over a year since my last Larkin’s write-up, and now that Larkin Mackey and Joshua McBride’s “joint” is running full throttle, it’s only fair to post an update, especially since the last time I wrote about the Eagle Rock soul food restaurant, it wasn’t even officially open for business yet.

It’s still hard to imagine that this beautifully restored circa 1911 Craftsman house was a used car dealership less than three years ago. My friend and I sat near the window, bathed from light that came streaming through stained glass windows, eating off a glass-topped table that was once a door.

Good Ole Fried Chicken ($10) was lightly breaded and expertly fried. The dark meat retained its moisture while barely betraying a hint of grease. The crust couldn’t have been more than a millimeter thin, and the skin was virtually fat-free.

The side: Aunt Carolyn’s Potato Salad, inspired by a version from Larkin’s aunt, “sweet and spicy,” studded with chunks of red and green pepper. The menu claims the potatoes inspire diners to “slap yo’ mamma.” My mamma was nowhere in sight, and my friend was bigger than me, so I’ll have to save the slapping for next time.

Spicy Sautéed Greens ($5) were totally devoid of the bitterness that pervades lesser greens. Sautéed in a skillet with tomatoes, peppers, garlic, and cayenne, they also had a nice kick.

My friend suggested Larkin’s for lunch just so he could finally try Mama’s Meatloaf Sandwich, but the words “hot link sandwich” proved too difficult to resist. The spicy tomato sauce-slathered special came piled with peppers and onions. He was happy.

The idea of fried Mac & Cheese Balls ($5) is positively gluttonous. The surprising reality: Larkin’s lightly breaded and fried side had a paper thin crust that added nice texture.

While low-grade mac & cheese too often relies on processed or unnaturally orange cheese, Larkin uses white cheese that looks like it actually came from a cow. Larkin won’t reveal which three cheeses he uses, but combined, they’re subtle and silky.

After spending four years eating Southern food off plastic trays at Nashville meat n’ threes, the idea of eating soul food off of porcelain is still a bizarre concept. Still, with Larkin producing such refined, flavorful versions just minutes away, I guess I’ll have to get used to it.

Related Posts

1. Seongbukdong - Los Angeles, CA - March 28, 2008
2. Top Fried Chicken in Los Angeles
3. Roy’s (20th Anniversary) – Los Angeles, CA – March 20, 2008
4. KyoChon Chicken – Los Angeles, CA - Sunday, May 11, 2008
5. Larkin’s - Eagle Rock, CA - January 20, 2007

This entry is filed under California, Eastside, Los Angeles, Soul Food, Southern California.