In Lynyrd Skynyrd’s famous song, a Saturday Night Special “Ain’t good for nothin’ But put a man six feet in a hole.” Thankfully, Chef Josef Centeno has better plans for diners at Ledlow, an eclectic restaurant in downtown L.A.’s Historic Core. Nightly specials include Monday gumbo & dirty rice, Tuesday ribs, and Friday pork shank, with no gunfire on the menu.

Centeno slow-roasts his pork shank with “a lot of fennel seed an star anise.” Red mustard leaves dress the bones, which rest on big white beans that beautifully soaked up the flavorful jus. Big chunks pull easily from each bone with a light tug of the fork. No need for a knife.

When my wife and I saw Centeno near the start of our meal, he asked, “Do you want me to roll you out of here?” Who are we to tell a chef this talented no, especially when he’s got dishes like pork shank to back him up? It’s a good thing Ledlow stocks takeout containers.

Dose of Vitamin P spotlights my favorite pork dish from the previous week.