My last meal at Mama’s was in 2004, but it’s not due to a dip in interest. On the contrary. I’ve made repeated attempts to eat at the reigning queen of Bay Area breakfast joints, but it all comes down to one factor: timing. On weekends, if you don’t join the line a half-hour before the 8 AM opening, you’re out of the initial seating and out of luck. This time, we wouldn’t be denied.

Frances “Mama” Sanchez opened her scintillating restaurant in 1951 on the northeast corner of Washington Square. Now Debra Sanchez runs the restaurant with husband Michael, the skilled grill man, head baker and Mama’s son.

Once you’re granted the privilege of passing through the front door, you’re paraded past the sizzling grill and bustling prep counter, where you’ll see warm loaves of bread destined for French toast glory, bowls of garden fresh vegetables and lump crab meat, and stacks of jaw-dropping coffee cakes. By the time you get to the register to place your order, a table should be ready, and your stomach should be churning.

Whatever you order, don’t pass up the prized coffee cakes. Chocolate crunch was this visit’s grand champion, with a moist base and chocolate-lashed streusel top that was nearly an inch thick.

Blueberry sour cream was also compelling, with plump berries and a tangy pop from the sour cream.

Michael Sanchez transforms his fresh loaves of bread into French toast. You can order the toasts individually, but the best way to experience the French toast is by ordering the sampler ($10.95). The trio changes each day. During our visit, we enjoyed tart cranberry-orange-walnut, Swedish cinnamon and banana nut topped with thin-sliced banana. The supple French toast fan was dusted with powdered sugar, scattered with fresh berries (black, rasp and straw) and plated with a tiny pitcher of maple syrup.

If French toast isn’t your thing, Mama’s also produces buttermilk pancakes, several varieties of fluffy omelettes and a crab benedict that utilizes that pulled crab meat.

In case you need an added jolt, each table hosts a container of homemade ollalie berry jam, which is terrific on just about anything.

With all the bread-on-bread action, we needed a Dose of Vitamin P to introduce a savory element. Mama’s grills thick strips of bacon, but we opted for a slab of char-grilled ham ($3.50) that delivered more than enough salt to cut all the sweetness.

Mama’s was well worth the half-hour wait for what remains San Francisco’s best breakfast. During the week, customers have to contend with fewer tourists, so it’s an even better time to visit.

Note: Closed Mondays

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This entry is filed under Breakfast, California, Northern California, San Francisco.