Maynard James Keenan: The Rising Wine Star

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Wine Arizona

Photo thanks to Phoenix New Times


Maynard James Keenan is the kind of guy who loves what he’s doing. He’s a do-er. He’s a maker. As a kid he loved to sculpt clay and attributes that dexterity and focus to his passion and ability for cooking; he says he makes a mean gnocchi. A few years back Maynard decided to stir the wine world a bit and plant vineyards in Arizona and begin to make wine within his Arizona facility but from grapes grown in California. His ultimate goal is to produce wines exclusively from grapes grown in Arizona, and the 2007 vintage was the first under Caduceus Cellars and Merkin Vineyards where about half of the wines will actually say “Arizona” on the label, meaning at least 75% of the fruit was grown in Arizona. Maynard enlisted the help of Eric Glomski, an Arizona native and fellow believer in the potential of their nearly 5000 foot elevation site in Jerome, AZ. Eric is also the winemaker at Page Spring Cellars.

It all worked. Attention was brought to the production, famous names in the wine world began buying up land in the surrounding areas to Maynard’s vineyard sites, and now his wines are available in most Whole Foods Markets and have distribution throughout the United States.

Above all else, Maynard likes to have fun. He’s hands on. He doesn’t stand there and watch the vineyard management team, he becomes part of it. He does punchdowns, inoculation, racking, barreling. He is serious, aside from his sense of humor…

Matthew Kaner: How did you first get into wine?

Maynard James Keenan: I’ve always had a zest for things that are “the best.” The best chocolate chip cookies, the best coffee, the best running shoes, best methods, the best way to store something, plant something, etc… The world has always been a great big puzzle to me. Or a picture with details you can’t really see unless you truly focus. New experiences drive me. Once I was exposed to the blatantly obvious differences in varietals and qualities of wine, I was screwed. Now I had to know more.

MK: Was there a specific person or event you attribute as a turning point in your awareness of and access to wine?

MJK: There are several small moments that add up to a general tipping point. Like when your older brother is slowly nudging your snow sled over the edge on the hill unbeknownst to you until it’s too late. Over you go, screaming/laughing all the way down.

MK: Was Arizona the first place on your list of under the radar regions to plant grapes? If not, where else were you thinking?

MJK: I live in AZ. That’s the first and foremost reason for planting there. It’s a place I’m slowly becoming very familiar with. It will take generations for us to truly understand the terroir, so it’s best to keep it close, right up against all of your senses.

MK: Of all the places you have traveled to throughout the world, what city or region houses restaurants with your favorite cuisine?

MJK: Rural areas of Italy. Hands down. Oh. and Osaka. And Tokyo. No wait… New York and L.A.. Did I say Italy?

MK: How did you build your approach to winemaking? Who are your mentors or to whom are you paying homage with your wine ventures?

MJK: As far as determination against all support, odds, reason, etc… my biggest inspiration comes from Max Schubert, from Magill Estate in Adelaide (Penfolds) As far as the actual process, I owe all that I’ve learned to the team at Page Springs Cellars.

MK: Has your approach to wine drinking and wine making changed since you started taking cooking classes? Think with respect to wine pairings, traditional dishes and wines of a specific region, or even how to deal with what your vineyard gives you.

MJK: Absolutely. It blows my mind when I hear of a chef that doesn’t like wine. How the Fuck does that happen? What does that even mean, you “don’t like wine?” Get out of my kitchen and never come back. Seriously.

MK: Dollar for dollar, where do you feel in the world of wine that the best value is found?

MJK: No idea. It used to be Australia, but hard to say now. Maybe Argentina, Chilean wines? or maybe wines from Sicily?

MK: How do you come up with the names of your wines?!?!?!?!

MJK: Most of the wine names are equal parts Geometry, Humor, and Mythology. I just made that up. Did it sound mysterious?

Kaner manages Silverlake Wine and is working to bottle his first wine: AM/FM.

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Great stuff, Matthew. My store carries 4 of Maynard’s AZ Stronghold wines.I recently had the opportunity to try one of his reds; it was really haps. Looking forward to checking his other stuff out. Liked your interview with Dana Farner, as well!

Nice Matt. Looking forward to trying the AZ juice!

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