It was standing room only in “sangre.” Rivera decorated their blood-red back room with conquistador helmet lamps and crafted walls from backlit extra añejo tequila bottles. Bartenders, bloggers, buyers and curiosity seekers paid rapt attention to the “Great Minds of Tequila.” Official de Tequila Tomas Estes and Partida Tequila brand ambassador Jacques Bezuidenhout conducted a 13-pour clinic on tequila, including blanco, reposado, añejo and a single glass of rare extra añejo.

Estes and Bezuidenhout began the “Great Minds of Tequila” by laying the ground rules for tequila evaluation. Clearly the liquor’s color (and photography) weren’t applicable since the sangre room was so dark. However, we could still get a sense of the nose, palate, and viscosity. Even in low light, it’s possible to see how well the tequila clings to the side of a glass. Bezuidenhout is a Johannesburg native who instructed us to “nose” the glass and wet the palate before taking a full sip. Estes added, “Allow it to wash across your receptors.”

In case you’re unfamiliar with Tequila Ocho, the Camarena family launched the brand on 8/8/08. Third generation tequilero Felipe Camarena sources agave from a single field in the Jalisco highlands. Partida Tequila is a larger brand dating to 2001, when San Francisco based marketer Gary Shansby started cultivating, cooking and distilling tequila in the “lowlands.”

Throughout the night at “Great Minds of Tequila,” we learned assorted tequila tidbits:
A) The Mexican government allows additives – 1% by volume.
B) Since distillates are dead, as long as there’s no oxidation, you can keep your bottle of tequila indefinitely.
C) The reason people can now call distilled agave “tequila” in areas other than Tequila is due to the Mexican government’s efforts to meet rising demand.
D) The “highlands” are 6,500 feet above sea level, but the “Tequila valley” is still 1,600 meters above sea level, so it’s a misnomer.

Each tequila round started with two blind tastes, followed by two Tequila Ocho pours. We started with four blancos, which are the truest representation of the agave since they don’t touch wood or experience aging.

Blind añejo #1 had a caramel body and a fairly smooth but short finish. When Estes and Bezuidenhout took guesses, some seasoned tequila drinkers were able to nail the brand straight away. It took seconds before we learned that Don Julio produced sample #1. Very impressive.

Blind añejo #2 was almost peppery, with a spicy body and a longer finish. This turned out to be Partida.

Tequila Ocho is a highlands tequila. In general, highlands tequilas are softer, rounder, and fruitier. Valley tequila is more aggressive. Tequila Ocho’s 2008 blanco originated in their Carrizal field.

2009 Tequila Ocho blanco originated from their Las Pomez field, where the agave was apparently beyond ripe. This variety enjoyed pine fermentation, as opposed to the typical stainless steel. This pour had high acidity, with a flavor close to fresh roasted, unfermented agave – sweet potato. This was one of my favorite tequilas of the night.

Blind Reposado #1 was the spiciest tequila yet, with vanilla notes from fermentation in “American whiskey” barrels. Unfortunately, this tequila had an off-putting aroma. This turned out to be La Fortaleza, which fifth-generation tequileros made in the town of Tequila.

Blind Reposado #2 was honey smooth, with a cleaner aroma.

2008 Tequila Ocho’s reposado came from their Carrizal field and aged in neutralized American whiskey barrels. It was viscous, with high acidity. Estes described a “briny olive” flavor. I never expected this descriptor, but it seemed strangely appropriate.

2009 Tequila Ocho reposado came from their Los Pomez field and featured a nice cinnamon flavor. It was unfiltered, so the tequila was especially viscous.

Añejos age for 1-3 years in oak barrels that hold under 600 liters.

Blind Añejo #1 was very smooth, with butterscotch notes. Copa d’Oro bartender Vincenzo Marianella pinpointed the tequila as Chinaco.

Blind Añejo #2 had an anise flavor and a long finish. This turned out to be Partida.

2007 Tequila Ocho yielded only 5000 bottles, which aged for exactly 12 months. This viscous tequila was a fairly light sip, with a short finish and more olive brininess.

2009 Tequila Ocho anejo was buttery, with a long finish.

Our final pour was an extra añejo, aged for five years: Partida Elegante. Extra añejo is a category that just appeared 1.5 years ago. Industry belief is that tequila doesn’t improve much after five years.

Overall, quarters were cramped, but the “Great Minds of Tequila” event was a good learning opportunity. I also discovered a few new quality tequilas.

FYI: you’re welcome to “drink the architecture” at Rivera. Designer/co-owner Eddie Sotto said that people can buy 10-year-old tequila bottles that line the shelves of the “sangre” room. On one of his many trips to Mexico, chef-owner John Rivera Sedlar discovered the tequila, which aged in American oak. Eddie Sotto designed the bottles with hand-milled walnut. They’ll engrave you name in gold on the bottle. It’s $2,500 for lock-and-key access to two bottles. The fee includes Rivera discounts, anytime reservations, and upcoming access to The Doheny. Rivera bartender Julian Cox will also name a cocktail for you on the list.

Finally, Cox debuts his autumn cocktail list on Thursday, October 29. To honor the occasion, Rivera is offering $5 cocktails beginning at 10 PM. At the tasting, he previewed one new cocktail, the Autumn Sour, featuring Partida añejo tequila and a cinnamon dusting.