At Petrossian West Hollywood, chef Giselle Wellman has earned the freedom to experiment with the famed family’s marquee ingredient: caviar. Sure, you can find premium sturgeon roe on soft scrambled eggs and blinis, but under Armen Petrossian‘s watchful eye, it’s now possible to score caviar on burgers and lobster rolls, which may be the best use yet.

During a recent happy hour for media types, Chef Wellman served her rolls in miniature, featuring brioche rolls cradling cool, sweet lobster meat, creamy sea urchin, a tiny dollop of caviar, a crisp salad of fennel, daikon and chives, brightness from lemon juice and parsley, and light punch from lemongrass garlic aioli. At lunch, a full sized Maine Lobster Roll costs $38 and comes with French fries. During happy hour, which runs weekdays from 4 PM – 7 PM, a Mini Lobster Roll costs $15 and comes with fries. The only variable is the size of your indulgence.