In the recent Los Angeles Times rotisserie chicken round up, Judith Kane Jeanson pinpointed her eight favorite birds in the county. Over the past 10 years, I’d eaten at every selection except for Pollos El Brasero, a Peruvian spot in L.A.’s Pico-Union district. I learned that Pollos El Brasero probably serves the best rotisserie chicken of the bunch.

Juan Shinzato, Jr. said that his Japanese father and his Lima-born mother (Maria Bajuelo) have run Pollos El Brasero for eight years, specializing in rotisserie chicken cooked over dry firewood.

The space itself is simple, with light brick on the outside, a row of red tables inside, along with a prominently displayed Peruvian flag. Service is strictly order-at-the-counter, and payment is cash only.

Juan revealed that his parents marinate the chicken for 24 hours in a blend of wine, salt, pepper and soy sauce, to name four ingredients in the recipe. I ordered a half chicken ($6.10), which featured caramelized skin, uniformly moist meat, including the breast, and what tasted like a citrus tang. On its own, the chicken would have been remarkable, and the experience got even better by dipping the meat in fiery aji (Peruvian jalapeño salsa). The side of steamed white rice and stewed pinto beans ($1.50) was a nice complement, especially when doused with the container of mild red salsa.