Tracy Olson launched her Alberta Arts District cafe in 2004, and it’s still going strong. The space houses red and grey walls, wood tables and counter, and a blackboard menu, with pie cases flanking the register. They’re also known for fried egg sandwiches and Water Avenue Coffee, but I fixated on their more than 10 types of pie and house-made vanilla bean ice cream. Shaker lemon pie incorporated organic a filling of tart, candied Meyer lemon and hosted a lid, often a key to pie pleasure for me. The pie crust was satisfyingly flaky.

The latest chapter for Stumptown Coffee founder Duane Sorenson values food over caffeine. He’s teamed with several talented culinary pros. Roman Candle is an Italian bakery and cafe down SE Division Street from sister restaurant The Woodsman Tavern. The space features a peaked red awning, long wooden King’s table that must span 30 feet, exposed wood rafters painted white, and worn wooden pizza peels for decoration on the wall. A blackboard menu resides above racks of bread, pastry cases with cookies, cannolis and more. A marble counter displays eight varieties of Pizza Bianca, crispy slabs with chewy crusts that come with scissors. I really enjoyed their special pizza with spigarello, mozzarella, Mama Lil’s pickled peppers, and tomatoes. Of course Roman Candle offers a Stumptown Coffee program with three group La Marzocco espresso machine and shelves displaying vintage coffee brewers.

Chef Eloise Augustyn worked at Random Order before opening Sweedeedee in 2012 in a former kaleidoscope factory. Her north Portland cafe carries a yellow and white awning and contains wood floors and banquettes, records and pickles on shelves, a wood swan chandelier, and specials on white, butcher paper. Corncakes are a breakfast tour de force, served with bacon, braised greens, two baked eggs and a tiny maple syrup pitcher. House-smoked trout didn’t look like much, tasted juicy and light with a squeeze with lemon. Augustyn is a beekeeper, exemplified by neon honeycomb in the window, so of course I had to order salted honey pie, a gooey marvel with buttery crust and sprinkling of Maldon sea salt.

Erik Van Kley, the former Little Bird chef, opened Taylor Railworks on the East side of the Willamette River in September 2015 featuring “Borderless American Cuisine.” The space stands out in an industrial area, with wall-to-wall wood, a marble bar, and an open kitchen. Toasted buttermilk rolls with salted butter. I was mightily impressed with spaghetti & meatballs, an inspired surf & turf with pork meatballs, spicy, garlicky broth, plump mussels, squid ink pasta, and sliced squid “noodles.” Chili crab is also worth ordering when Dungeness crab is in season. They also serve atypical salads. No matter your order, Taylor Railworks starts each meal with toasted buttermilk rolls and salted butter.