We’re in the midst of a rum revival in the U.S., and one of the movement’s leaders is undoubtedly Martin Cate, who opened Alameda’s Forbidden Island in 2006 and recently stepped his game up at Smuggler’s Cove in San Francisco. He discussed his background, approach and why rum has gone from supporting player to a lead role.

Do you consider yourself a bartender or mixologist?
Primarily a bartender, because I think the word implies service first, and I hold service in higher regard than mixology. I think it was Jim Meehan who said, “Mixologists serve drinks, bartenders serve people”.

How did you become so interested in cocktails?
I started off over a decade ago digging into exotic cocktail history after having a little tiki party at my house. I bought some old cocktail guides and set about sourcing loads of esoteric ingredients. Jeff Berry’s books were a real guiding light and helped “translate” a lot of what I’d found, and at the same time gave the drinks context.

What’s your first cocktail memory?
My first cocktail memory is being 21 and working with DC. I was an intern at an embassy, and a coworker said, “Have you ever been to a Trader Vic’s?” I said no, and he said, “Well there’s one in DC, we should go- they have drinks as big as your head!” So we went, the Rum Keg was indeed as big as my head, and I fell in love.

Do you have any cocktail mentors? If so, who are they?
Historically, Don & Vic of course. When I first started bartending at Trader Vic’s in San Francisco, the assistant bar manager Lars was a tough taskmaster, but I really appreciated the way that he took the job very seriously and was totally committed to maintaining the traditions of Trader Vic’s. The Vic’s shake, jigger technique, and much more- he really believed that the traditions of the company were what made it special. He inspired me to set high standards at Smuggler’s Cove.

What differentiates Smuggler’s Cove from Forbidden Island?
Forbidden Island was my way of saying “look, lots of people are opening tiki bars again these days, but no one is caring about the drinks. Let’s decorate it right AND do exotic cocktails right.” Smuggler’s Cove represents my goal of moving beyond the great drinks of the tiki bar era, but also looking at the entire 350 year history of rum and celebrating the incredible diversity of the spirit. I also wanted to invest in a larger range of spirits and a deeper and more involved rum education program. Of course, we still feature a huge selection of exotic cocktails, because they’re amazing pieces of work.

What is it about rum that inspires you?
It’s the whole history of the New World in every glass. The diversity of the spirit is incredible, from raw materials to distillation techniques to aging and blending, there’s nothing else like it. It can be your agreeable mixer, it can be your luxurious after dinner sipper, it can be everything in between. The range of flavors in a single rum can be staggering. All that, and you can have some fantastic rums for a fraction of the cost of tequila or scotch.

Why do you think rum is experiencing a renaissance?
People are looking for bold new flavors in their spirits, after finally tiring somewhat of drinking vodkas- we’ve already seen the rise of tequila, now people are discovering rum brands that have been around literally for centuries but have just been overlooked. People are also being more savvy in their drinking and starting to turn down the artificially flavored rums that have floated around for too long, and are seeking the character and depth of premium aged rums. And appreciating that quality can be had for a great price.

Who are some other bartenders or mixologists who you respect?
Beyond my very talented and hard working staff & and the incredible talent of the SF chapter of the USBG, it’s such a long list of people, that I’d hate to single people out and forget some. So I’ll just say Dr. Murray Stenson, Esq. and leave it at that.

What are some other bars that you enjoy drinking at in the Bay Area?
That’s a long list, too: 15 Romolo, Absinthe, The Alembic, Barceluna, Beretta, Bourbon and Branch, Clock Bar, Heaven’s Dog, Hotsy Totsy Club, Club Mallard, Presidio Social Club, Range, Rick House, Rye, Tavern at Lark Creek, The Alley, Heinhold’s First and Last Chance, Trader Vic’s Emeryville, Toronado, Lucky 13, The Doghouse, and I’m sure there’s some I’m forgetting.

What’ a great simple rum cocktail recipe for people to make at home?
Wray and Ting! Fantastically delicious- 1.5 oz Wray & Nephew overproof Jamaican rum, 4-5 oz Ting (or Squirt) grapefruit soda, squeeze of lime on the rocks. Perfection.

If you could only drink one more cocktail, what would it be?
I could never choose. Just let me nurse a bottle of rum while I wait for the hangman’s noose.