Interview: bartender-mixologist Toby Maloney

Bartender New York City

INTERVIEW CONTINUED ON PREVIOUS PAGE

Do you have any mentors? If so, who are they, and what did they teach you?

So very, very many mentors. First and foremost would be my mom, Gigi. She let me into the kitchen at three to experiment to my hearts content. She taught me to be fearless in experimentation, but to learn from your mistakes. I made a strawberry and onion cake once, but only once. She would leave me at the kitchen counter with pounds of flour, dozens of eggs, and gallons of milk. It often didn’t end well except for our German Sheppard Princess. After my assembling was over Gigi would hose me down, put my creation in the oven, and put the kitchen back together.

Chef Icy, of Gevas in San Francisco. She gave me my first real cooking job. She taught me many off the things I still use daily in work, in my home kitchen and in my off hours.

Who are some other bartenders who haven’t worked with that you really admire, and how come?

The list is so long I am exhausted even before I start it. I can say I admire all the bartenders out there who proudly call themselves bartenders (or lifers) and work every day with integrity and dignity. The more of us out there, the less often we need to answer the question, “What do you really do?”

What was the last cocktail you developed, and what was your approach?

The Arrows of Outrageous Fortune- Weller 107, Bonal, Hibiscus Syrup, Fresh Lemon Juice, Soda.

I was looking to make a light long summery cocktail. We get this KILLER hibiscus from Terra Spice (Judy you rock) so I started with making a simple syrup with that. It reminds me of tropical islands, the genteel lap of waves, a warm ruffling breeze through palm fronds. So I paired that with a balls to the wall, rock and roll whiskey. To give the cocktail depth and length I went with the wonderfully bitter, herbaceous Bonal. To brighten it I donated some lemon juice and to make it dance a splash of soda.

What’s a great simple cocktail for people to make at home, and what’s the recipe?

I love the Old Fashioned, but I like to build it in stages. First fill a glass 2/3 the way up with rye, cognac, rum, tequila, genever, Tennessee Whiskey, Batavia Arrack, bourbon, or a spirit of any of any kind. Have a few sips, contemplate the character, the essence of what you are drinking. Sweeten it a bit. Use what you have on hand, Terra Spice Demerara is my favorite, but if you only have a couple of Sugar in the Raw packets you stole from Starbucks you will survive…. Have a few more sips. Now get a little ice or cold, filtered water. Add just enough that a guppy could fuck in it. Now it’s time to add some bitters. Have a good long draw of that combination. The spirit and the bitters should be hanging long and loose. Steal another sip to make sure that the booze, sugar and bitters are still getting along. Get a lemon or an orange or a grapefruit depending on what your base is. Cut a wide, thick, sumptuous swath of rind. Have another sip. Express the oils over the cocktail. Drink the last few drops in the glass and start again.

Where do you like to drink and what do you like to drink when you’re not at work?

H2O, a gallon a day there is something so amazing about cold water. I miss the water that comes out of the spigot next to the Jamestown Merc. In Colorado. I love pink wine and an awkward 22oz glass of champers. There is something to be said for a frigid, sweating can of beer in a (say this with a silky Georgia accent, it’s one word,) Coldbeerholder.

Any favorite outdoor activities?

I like to have very cold beers under grape arbors. I am very partial to having a big plastic cup of rose while playing Bocce ball. There is nothing better than a grassy tequila in a park, after running after the churro guy. I love to star gaze with a bonded whiskey, a crappy beer and some parliament lights with the filters broke off. It’s always fun to make a few gallons of Southside’s and take a train north out of the city.

If you could only fill your glass with one more cocktail, what would be in the glass and why?

That question isn’t even remotely fair. It’s like Sophie’s choice but with more choices, therefore more tragedy.

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Joshua Lurie

Joshua Lurie founded FoodGPS in 2005. Read about him here.

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