Interview: chef Marc Vetri (Vetri, Osteria, Amis + Alla Spina)

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Chef Philadelphia

There was a pivotal point in Marc Vetri’s life where he could have gone pro in two disciplines. His band earned a preliminary record deal, but the guitarist set out for Italy instead, immersing himself in the cuisine that would eventually inspire four Philadelphia restaurants: Vetri, Osteria (co-owned with Jeff Michaud), Amis (co-owned with Michaud) and his impending Italian gastropub, Alla Spina. On November 9, Vetri cooked for media types at a private home near the Hollywood sign, to mark the release of his latest cookbook, Rustic Italian Food. We met with Vetri after the meal (and some live music) and he shared further insights.

This is your second cookbook. Knowing what you learned from the first one, how is your approach different the second time?

Well, obviously, like when you open a restaurant, the first one, you’re a little bit unorganized, you don’t know what to do, you don’t know what to expect. When you open a second one, you just know certain things. That was very similar to the cookbook writing. The first one was a little bit harder, because I didn’t have the recipes written. And I had a real hard time writing the stories for it. Once I had the first one under my belt, we started to document all of the recipes we do at the restaurant. We already had the recipes written.

So that became a part of your process after the first cookbook?

Yeah. I was like, “Why am I writing the recipes when I’m making ‘em?” I didn’t have them written, so from then on, whenever we have a new menu, we write all the recipes for it, so we have them all. Then the writing, you just start to understand things better. They’re easier to write. They just flowed a little easier.


Cookbook Philadelphia
Rustic Italian Food Book Cover:“Reprinted with permission from Rustic Italian Food by Marc Vetri, copyright © 2011. Published by Ten Speed Press, a division of Random House, Inc.”

So you have three restaurants and one more on the way?

Yes, one more on the way. Alla Spina is our new restaurant. It’s a gastropub.

Why an Italian gastropub for your fourth restaurant?

We’ve been into the beer culture for awhile now. We’ve been doing a lot of research on it, and it just seems like the next logical step for us.

What are the biggest challenges about operating multiple restaurants, and how many more can you take on?

I don’t know. I think it’s all about surrounding yourself with the right chefs and the right management staff. If you do that well, it just makes life a lot easier.

Can you imagine opening a restaurant outside of Philadelphia at some point?

I could, but it would have to be the right thing. It would have to be the right opportunity. Even to open up another restaurant in Philadelphia, it needs to be the right opportunity.

What do you look for when hiring somebody to work in one of your kitchens, and is that different at each of the venues?

I just look for a certain work ethic, I think. I’m less interested if you’ve been working at this restaurant, or that one. I’m more interested in your ethic, your demeanor.

What was your very first night like working in a professional restaurant kitchen, and where was that at?

I mean I’ve been working in restaurants since I was 13 years old. I can’t even remember. It’s just been all a blur. I wouldn’t even know where to begin.

What was the last trip you took internationally?

I went to Italy. I always go to Italy, three times a year, four times a year. Love it. It’s my inspiration.

On this last trip, where did you go, and how did that impact your menus?

I usually go to Bergamo. It’s where I lived. I always kind of go to the same area where I lived, because it always inspires me more. It’s where all my friends are, and it’s just where I like to go to get inspired.

Who’s the one person you’ve never cooked with that you would most like to cook with?

The one person I’ve never cooked with…dead or alive?

Alive, so it would be possible.

I’ve cooked with a lot of people. You know who I haven’t cooked with who I’ve always wanted to? Because I hear he’s an awesome guy who also is a musician, is Dean Fearing. I would love to just kind of hang out with him one night and cook.

And play music?

And play music. Of course.

Yes, Marc Vetri played guitar alongside singer-songwriter Phil Roy after dinner.

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Joshua Lurie

Joshua Lurie founded FoodGPS in 2005. Read about him here.

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