It was a Friday night, so we expected a two-hour wait, at least. That’s how popular this restaurant is. Incredibly, the hostess sat us right away. We even scored a prime seat on the enclosed porch, with vines and white lights snaking across the window.

Johanne Killeen and George Germon opened Al Forno on the Providence River on January 2, 1980, a year before getting married. Germon, who taught architecture in town at RISD, designed the restaurant, utilizing plenty of brick. Al forno means “oven-baked” in Italian.

The grilled pizza with prosciutto di Parma was unique, in the shape of a painter’s pallet, and possibly the premier pie of my life. The pizza incorporated perfectly balanced tomato sauce, a light dusting of Parmesan-Reggiano, some shaved scallions, all on top of a thin and crisp but supple crust. Phenomenal.

Clams Al Forno were nearly as devastating as the pizza, served in a tomato sauce spiked with red pepper. I dipped some fresh-baked focaccia in the luscious tomato broth.

Our entrée, a citrus and honey glazed lamb loin chop, was accompanied by grape, toasted nut and orange peel couscous. Even though the exterior of the lamb was delicious, the interior was seriously undercooked, almost bloody. The couscous, though, was remarkable, prepared with incredible olive oil, an absolute revelation. I didn’t know how the cooked purple grapes would work, but they were great.

All desserts were made to order. At $19, the strawberry-rhubarb tart was steep, but worth it at twice the price. The large tart had a perfect crust, flaky and moist, not too heavy, filled with sweet ripe strawberries and chunks of rhubarb.

Al Forno was outstanding. If it weren’t for the lamb, I’d put this meal up with any I’ve eaten.

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This entry is filed under Italian, New England.