North Carolina native George Weld partnered with Steve Tanner on this unassuming Brooklyn restaurant. The duo’s eatery has become a Williamsburg favorite due to its beyond-reasonable Southern-tinged menu. Egg may be my all-time favorite breakfast spot thanks to this meal.

This shotgun space with bare walls and an outdoor patio features no signage visible from the street, just a framed cracked plaster sign near the entrance.

Our waitress presented a complimentary coffee cup of beignets. Free fried dough is always a welcome surprise, but especially in this case. They were light and airy, and not too sweet, since there was only a smattering of sugar granules.

In a nod to Weld’s North Carolina roots, he makes a killer Country Ham Biscuit ($7.50). The country ham comes from Colonel Bill Newsom’s Hams in Princeton, Kentucky, known to be about the best in the nation. The biscuit would be excellent solo, but with the salty slab of ham, sweet homemade fig jam and melted Grafton cheddar, it was insanely good. The biscuit came with a side of stellar Anson Mills grits, from South Carolina. We split a side of homemade pork sausages ($3), two char-grilled patties that had some good heat to them.

Eggs Rothko ($7.50) was a compelling tribute to the contemporary artist, with an easy-cooked egg cradled in an airy, hollowed-out slice of Amy’s brioche, topped with more Grafton cheddar. The plate came with broiled tomatoes and a choice of meat. We opted for High Hope Farms scrapple, which was better than any scrapple I ever ate in Philadelphia. These slabs had thin, crispy sheathes, a nice outer char and luscious interiors.

We decided to order one dish that didn’t include meat, caramelized grapefruit with mint ($3). The sugar-crusted fruit was served with a serrated utensil that’s a crossbreed of a spoon and knife. If a combination spoon-fork is a spork, does that make this a spife? It doesn’t matter. This dish helped to restore my faith in grapefruit.

My friend and I were startled at how consistently good the food was at Egg, and how little it cost. My only complaint: Egg is 2782 miles from my apartment.

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This entry is filed under American, Breakfast, New York City.