Cindy Pawlcyn opened her eclectic American cafe in 1983. In recent years, she’s become one of Napa Valley’s leading restaurateurs, adding Cindy’s Backstreet Kitchen and Go Fish, both just north, in St. Helena. Judging by the overflowing crowds at Mustards Grill, Ms. Pawlcyn hasn’t spread her talents too thin. We arrived during the lunch rush, and there was over an hour wait for a table. Thankfully, there was relief at the bar, where the patrons were friendly, and even shared their food.

Mustards Grill is named for the vivid yellow plant that is in full bloom this time of the year. Mustard is grown between grape vines to supply nitrogen to the soil, and to prevent erosion.

This fountain sits in front of the entrance and is a key part of Mustards’ whimsical decor. Inside, there are equally funky wine bottle and plant ceramics.

No Northern California restaurant worth a visit would be complete without a good loaf of crusty bread. Here’s the Mustards loaf, with butter.

To drink, we had fresh squeezed lemonade ($3) and a Cock & Bull ginger beer ($4), which provided a tasty burn.

To start, we split seared sesame-crusted ahi ($12.50), served on housemade sesame crackers. Drizzled with wasabi cream and topped with julienned red bell peppers, the flavor really popped, and had good crunch from the crackers.

The couple sitting next to us at the bar was kind enough to share their onion rings. They weren’t greasy or heavy, more like fried whisps of onion.

The sign out front claims that Mustards Grill has sold almost a million pork chops. That knowledge nugget cemented my order. After tasting the Mongolian pork chop ($27.95), I can see why the dish has nearly cracked the seven figure mark. The chop is luscious, cooked medium rare, really juicy, slathered with a tangy sauce that Gourmet’s Colman Andrews claims to include hoison, soy sauce, sesame oil, sherry and rice vinegar. Paired with sweet and sour red cabbage, plus a mound of mashed potatoes, it was a serious plate of food.

This half-slab of baby back ribs ($22.95) was overcooked, a little dry. Thankfully, redemption came in the form of sensational horseradish cole slaw (studded with golden raisins) and slabs of crisp-skinned sweet potatoes.

Any restaurant that is resourceful enough to survive almost a quarter-century is bound to develop singature dishes. With those gaudy sales figures, the pork chop clearly qualifies as Mustards’ signature entree. It was easy to figure out the signature dessert. The “famous” menu introduction for the lemon-lime pie ($7.50) gave it away. The brown sugar meringue was indeed “ridiculously tall,” taller than the length of my hand, but the citrusy filling was a little too sweet.

Restaurants don’t survive for 24 years without good reason. After eating at Mustards Grill, it’s obvious Cindy Pawlcyn understands the appetites of Napa Valley diners. There are more and more dining options in the area, but given Mustards’ combination of strong flavors, large portions and serious buzz, Cindy Pawlcyn’s first restaurant is still worth a visit.

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This entry is filed under American, California, Northern California.