It takes confidence for a chef to only sell two items, and Joseph Cordova has plenty of it. After tasting his Baja-style fish and shrimp tacos on four separate occasions, it’s clear that his confidence is warranted.

Cordova debuted The Best Fish Taco in Ensenada next to a Los Feliz auto repair shop in September 2007. He previously owned a similar restaurant in Atwater Village, but due to a neighborhood dispute with the landlord, he was forced to find new location. Cordova grew up near Los Feliz, has always loved the neighborhood and thought he could make the long dormant space work.

To beautify the storefront, Cordova hired Ed Cristal, a friend and local artist, to create the underwater décor. It took a few months, but now the walls feature colorful tile work that resembles a coral reef, teeming with hand-painted Dorado. Behind the salsa bar, a cobalt blue wall hosts swaying seaweed.

Cordova owns a Hollywood art gallery called Gallery Chauvet, named for the caves in France that house the oldest known cave paintings – 34,000 years old. Thanks to the gallery, Cordova is able to showcase paintings from local artists who display “a sense of style, grace and beauty.”

Cordova lamented, “Baja style fish tacos originated in Ensenada, but they have completely bastardized the technique to please the American palates. Down there, they fudge and skimp. I won’t do that.” Cordova promises a classic Baja style fish taco, similar to how they were in Ensenada fifty years ago.

When asked where he learned to make fish tacos, Cordova said, “My mother is a gourmet chef in eight different cuisines. I can cook the pants off almost anyone, so when I discovered Ensenada style fish tacos, I was able to duplicate it and kick it up a few notches.”

To dress the tacos, a well-stocked salsa bar hosts bowls of shredded radish relish, Pineapple Kiss (“tropical refreshing bite”), Hot Guac, Mad Mango, Mango Less (“all of the passion – none of the mango”), Mild (“delicious, but wimpy”), plus shredded cabbage for crunch and a dispenser of La Crema Magica (“the final ingredient”).

Cordova even created a sexy character named Sessy Salsa to appear on the sign and as a branding tool to explain the salsas. Cordova said, “She has an opinion on each salsa, which is an education on how hot they are, flavors and textures, and how they might affect your mouth.” Cordova appreciates how, given all the possible salsa bar combinations, “every single taco can have a different attitude or taste. They’re not just a food or a sensation.”

Cordova and his crew lightly fry basa, a farm-raised white fish. Cordova said, “I can use any type of good white fish I want, but this one has perfect texture and doesn’t taste fishy.” Agreed. It’s also flaky but firm, sporting a sheer coat of batter. The plump shrimp (on the right) are similarly stellar.

I dressed the fish taco with Pineapple Kiss and Hot Guac, contributing nice chile heat. The shrimp taco was treated to Mad Mango and tangy Radish Relish. Both tacos host a streak of Crema Magica.

The only component of the tacos that could possibly be improved is the packaged tortillas, which are grilled but still tend to break when loaded with salsa.

To drink, the back counter displays plastic jugs of fresh tamarindo, Jamaica and horchata, all ladled into cups by counterwomen. Unlike the sweet Mexican horchata, which is loaded with cinnamon, Cordova prefers a “Central American” horchata, flavored with freshly ground morro seeds from a calabash gourd, which provide a nutty flavor. Cordova said, “They provide depth of flavor instead of syrupy sweetness.” Agreed.

Cordova’s artist friend Carla Choy bakes different sweets daily ($1), depending on her whim, including these flavorful peanut butter brownies with chocolate ganache and pineapple empanadas. In the past, I’ve spotted lemon bars. Cordova said, “Carla is an incredible artist and photographer whose real passion in life is baking. When they’re there, they’ll be there. When they’re not, don’t ask.”

Cordova is about to go into production on his salsas, which will be available for sale in-house and at local markets. He also hopes the Los Feliz location will be a prototype for future expansion. In the meantime, he has to settle for serving the best fried fish tacos in the city.

Hours:
Tuesday-Sunday: 11 AM - 8 PM

This entry is filed under California, Los Angeles, Mexican, Seafood, Southern California.