The Bazaar: Gastronomic Pleasure Palace Fit For a Birthday [CLOSED]

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Spanish Food Los Angeles

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Green Japanese baby peaches were plated with Stonehenge-like strips of sweet orange peach and tangy tzatziki that was sprinkled with “red” sea salt, lime and orange zest and more of that Pedro Ximenez vinegar. It wasn’t quite dessert, but had enough sweetness to deliver a satisfying conclusion…not that we were close to done.

Spanish Food Los Angeles
Sangria Rojo Pitcher ($48) came with a tableside presentation and was loaded with fresh fruit, cherry vodka, brandy, Cointreau, crushed mint and a bottle of 2006 Ercavio Tempranillo. The overall effect wasn’t as good as expected, with too many tannins and not enough sweetness.

We started the bonus round with a platter of Jamones Y Embutidos, ($32) an assortment of Jamón Serrano Fermin – Dry cured ham; Jamón Ibérico Fermin – Dry cured, free-range Ibérico ham; and prized Jamón Ibérico de bellota Fermin – Acorn-fed, free-range Ibérico ham, all served with Catalan style toast brushed with tomato.

Spanish Food Los Angeles
At carnivals, foods on sticks are always more fun and seemingly taste better. The Bazaar has a playful side, as evidenced by their cotton candy foie gras ($5), a cube of cold foie gras terrine rolled in corn nuts for crunch and swaddled in vanilla-infused cotton candy. This was a winner.

Spanish Food Los Angeles
We added SOME LITTLE SANDWICHES, beginning with “Philly cheesesteak” ($8 each). For this reinterpretation, “Air bread” was piped with molten Fiscalini cheddar espuma and topped with seared Wagyu beef, onion jam, a drizzle of olive oil and a shower of chives and sea salt. Tim said that the cheddar overpowered the beef, so why use such good beef? Valid point.

Spanish Food Los Angeles
The foie gras sandwich (3 for $15) was simple but terrific comfort food, a warm, buttery, fresh-baked brioche lined with sea salt and cradling a cool layer of foie gras pate and another layer of sweet quince paste.

We planned to transition to the patisserie, but there weren’t enough seats available, so we ate PATISSERIE DESSERTS in the restaurant.

Spanish Food Los Angeles
Traditional Spanish Flan ($12) was nice and creamy, topped with caramel, a gigantic dollop of vanilla cream and California citrus.

Spanish Food Los Angeles
Apples “Carlota” ($12) turned out to be a soft log of bread pudding plated with saffron cream sauce, a generous dollop of whipped cream and a crunchy dark chocolate-coated stick.

Spanish Food Los Angeles
Pineapple and Fennel Salad ($12) was by far the best dessert, featuring fresh coconut, a slab of caramelized fennel and a scoop of tangy goat’s milk sorbet.

Spanish Food Los Angeles
SLS Tres Chocolate Mousse ($12) was one of the dishes that didn’t benefit from a re-imagination. We received three distinct layers of chocolate pudding, plus pop rocks and a squeezable vial of dark chocolate sauce. There was even a dark chocolate disc stenciled with SLS’ signature chalice-wielding monkeys. The dessert just wasn’t cohesive.

Some dishes were better than others, but given the overall effect, The Bazaar delivered one of the more memorable meals in 2009.

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Joshua Lurie

Joshua Lurie founded FoodGPS in 2005. Read about him here.

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