“Impresario” Kristen Trattner and Chef Monica May opened The Nickel Diner over the summer, helping to transform another block of downtown’s diminishing Skid Row while contributing one of L.A.’s better breakfasts.

During construction, Trattner and May discovered original hand-painted menus on the walls that date to the ’40s. The space features plenty of red, including red booths. The only thing it was missing was counter seating. It’s fun to watch The Nickel’s skilled short-order cooks, but that’s not possible given the configuration.

Pastry Chef Sharlena Fong has a modern takes on classic pastries, including the Bacon Donut ($2.50), a textbook glazed donut showered with crispy bacon bits. Fresh from the fryer, the donut would have been even more devastating.

5th and Main ($8.75) involved spicy BBQ pork hash topped with two poached eggs. The hash was awesome, with chunks of potato that were nearly caramelized in porky runoff.

The first scramble ($8.50) combined bacon, spinach, roasted garlic and gobs of goat cheese. The scrambles reminded me of what Millie’s has been doing for years with their “messes.” The Nickel’s scrambles were solid, but they couldn’t compete with the crusty pork hash. Unsurprisingly, the roasted potatoes were excellent, with crusty exteriors and lush interiors.

The salmon scramble ($9.75) included leeks, roasted tomatoes, chives and a squiggle of sour cream. This scramble came with a dish of cheesy polenta, which was like a sweeter, cheesier version of grits.

Breakfast also came with a choice of toast, including white, wheat or sourdough. Tables at The Nickel host containers of seasonal jam. Today, that meant strawberry-pear.

After you’re finished eating, pay at the register. Of course, in classic diner style, they had cookies for sale at the register. The Nickel team plans to open for dinner and late-night. There’s no reason to think their food will decline as the skies grow dark.

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1. mattatouille, December 1, 2008:

   I could eat here for breakfast once a week. That bacon doughnut, I could eat once a day. Or twice an hour.

2. bobby franks, March 9, 2009:

   i just wanted to thank the dinner for a excellent breakfast and especially the waitress who waited on us.She didn’t write any thing down and our meal was perfect.Thanks to all especially our wonderful waitress ricki she is the best.I know i misspelled her name

This entry is filed under American, California, Diner, Eastside, Los Angeles, Southern California.