Dennis Leary already had plenty on his plate, operating a stylish 20-seat coffee shop called Canteen in San Francisco’s vibrant Commodore Hotel. Apparently one market-driven restaurant wasn’t enough, so for the past year, he’s spent his weekdays downtown, operating a sandwich shop called The Sentinel with a menu that changes on a daily basis.

Leary makes six sandwiches per day, plus cookies and a flavored lemonade. If there’s space (unlikely), you can eat standing up at the counter, but most people grab and go. The Sentinel is popular with Financial District denizens and local business people.

The lunch counter was all out of pork, but the back-up option was still pretty solid: Veal Meatball Tomato Parm ($8) on a soft sesame-studded egg bread. The mild meat paired well with the chunky tomato sauce and molten mozzarella.

Since it was nearly closing time and The Sentinel is closed on weekends, Leary tossed in a free cookie, which was the size of a small Frisbee, studded with golden raisins, streaked with gooey molasses and completely amazing.