Each massive mesquite smoker holds trays of spice rubbed pork tenderloin, lamb ribs, brisket, pork chops, sausage, chicken and ribs. The pitman will ask if you want “sauce.” You do, so he’ll spear your desired chunks of meat and dip them in a bucket of sauce before tossing them on a plastic tray. Take the heavy tray inside for weighing and carving. Walls hold the requisite amount of deer heads, plus a lynx poised to pounce on diners. Each slice of brisket features a nice smoke ring, not too much fat and plenty of smoky flavor. The chicken was tremendous, lacquered and luscious. If the bird had crisper skin, it may have achieved poultry perfection. The “big chop” was similarly outstanding, peppery and moist. Sausage links feature nice snap and finely chopped cole slaw is crisp, without too much corrupting mayo.

The oldest barbecue house in Texas that’s been continually operated by the same family dates to 1932. As in most central Texas barbecue establishments, smokers are accessed using a weighted pully system. Here, the black smokers are housed in red brick. A pit man wields a cleaver and a knife. On our visit, we scored a sausage link, brisket, pork ribs and pork loin, along with a dish of the house barbecue sauce. The sausage was coarse and peppery and the brisket was slightly fatty, but that translated into unbelievable flavor and fork tenderness. The pork ribs had a nice chew to them, and the pork loin, available only on weekends, had a gamy tenderness.