Tonight’s debut of La Grande Orange in Santa Monica signals a deepening partnership between Bob Lynn’s LGO Hospitality and Rich Melman’s Lettuce Entertain You. Lynn previously joined forces with Melman’s sons RJ and Jerrod on Hub 51, a thriving restaurant and club in Chicago – LEYE’s headquarters. Now Lynn, the Melmans and their partners are converging on LGO’s home base. Based on Saturday night’s preview, Westsiders seem to have scored a versatile new gathering spot.

My girlfriend works for LGO Hospitality, and everything I’ve been hearing from her boss, LGO founder Bob Lynn, has led me to believe this could be a great neighborhood restaurant, maybe even better than La Grande Orange Café, a Pasadena favorite of mine. I’m not going to judge LGO Santa Monica based on a pre-opening preview, but some aspects weren’t quite what I expected, and LGO Pasadena still has the edge, for now.

Lynn previously described the 4100-square-foot space as “casual upscale warm industrial…where people feel comfortable in their yoga outfit to a business suit.” During the day, customers order at the counter at LGO Santa Monica. At night, expect full service.

The dining room has come together well since I last visited three weeks ago. Where there were blank panels on the west wall, you’ll now find hanging mirrors. The dining room was low-lit, and there was good buzz. The patio was packed and the dining room was full. At night, LGO Santa Monica is an ideal date place, and easily pairable with a post-meal walk along the beach. The music wasn’t too loud, allowing easy conversation. The only questionable design decision was a stark white frame with an orange YES in the middle. That was a little too rah-rah for my taste and seemed out of place.

Bob’s Handmade Margarita ($8) featured a salt lined rim and a slice of fresh lime up top. Since Lynn was willing to stake his name on the margarita, he was clearly confident, and he should be. The drink was balanced and refreshing.

The dinner menu was diverse, featuring sections devoted to Things We Put on Chips like shrimp ceviche and tuna tartare, Essential Salads, Very Best Burgers, Soft Taco Platters and Very Special entrees. The most expensive option tops out at $21.95 for a wood-grilled flat iron steak. You’ll find value at LGO Santa Monica, but don’t expect many composed plates or sides.

For dinner, my goal was to order dishes that aren’t also available in Pasadena. Santa Monica features some of my favorites from La Grande Orange Cafe, including Dixie Pan-Fried Chicken and Brussels Sprout salad, but those dishes weren’t under consideration.

Each cut of Spicy Shrimp & King Crab Sushi ($12.95) with masago and chile oil featured a fresh square of sweet King crab. However, the sushi probably could have used more heat.

The Braised Niman Ranch Pork Shoulder with Apricot-Mustard Glaze ($19.95) could have used an accompaniment for aesthetic’s sake and to cut the meat’s richness, a richness that was heightened with slivers of bacon. Still, the meat was plenty tender and the sauce was flavorful and didn’t taste cloying or overly sweet.

It was a big disappointment to discover that La Grande Orange isn’t serving pizza yet. The springy version that LGO serves in Phoenix would rate near the top of the L.A. pizza ladder. A manager told us that Rich Melman was unsatisfied with the Santa Monica test cases. He said they cooked over 500 pizzas last week, and none of them passed muster, so they don’t have it on the menu. As you know, many diners rush to judgment, so LGO/LEYE might as well get it right before adding pizza to the rotation.

You’ll find at least five desserts on any given night. Key Lime Chiffon Pie ($4.95) was light and fluffy. The meal’s only true clunker was the Apricot Coconut Cobbler ($5.95), which unnecessarily incorporated dried apricots. If there was coconut in the dessert, it was just a trace amount.

The wine list was almost exclusively California, with a couple Oregon Pinots and an entire section devoted to Favorites From Santa Barbara. Santa Monica is pretty much ground zero for the California’s “natural” lifestyle. Given that, you’ll find a couple VEGAN WINES.

Considering over 850 people packed the Echoplex on Saturday for Craft Beer Fest L.A., Los Angeles is clearly starved for craft beer. LGO Santa Monica features three quality beers – Deschutes Mirror Pond Ale and two taps devoted to Craftsman. Still, three taps isn’t enough given how many quality beers are available. Cocktails are also enjoying a major renaissance, so limiting the list to two vodka cocktails was a letdown. Hopefully LGO Santa Monica ups the beer and cocktail ante.

Before the meal, pastry cases were full near the entrance. Post-feast, I was hoping to score a chocolate babka or a morning bun. Unfortunately, by the time my friend and I finished our meal, the pastries were already cleared from the cases. Thankfully, the counterwoman was able to snag us some outstanding house-made English muffins, which are arrayed enticingly on trays behind the counter.

Near the entrance, you’ll also find shelves featuring every wine on the list to buy and bolt. You’ll also find LGO merch, including shirts and mugs.

La Grande Orange opens daily at 6:30 AM.

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This entry is filed under LA Culinary Compass, Openings.