I get it. Lobster, butter or mayo, and a toasted roll are pretty much a sure thing. Thankfully, some restaurateurs understand that other sea creatures might also work wonders. Crab and shrimp have become viable options at places like Knuckle & Claw, and Cape Seafood and Provisions has been featuring smoked sea scallops.

Chef Michael Cimarusti and business partner Donato Poto (Providence + Connie & Ted’s) opened their third concept in Lindy & Grundy’s old space in West Hollywood. The Cape Seafood and Provisions space features fish like Santa Barbara thornyhead on ice, smoked fish like black cod and salmon collars/bellies, a selection of soups in the fridge, cans of albacore and sardine tins in center island, and blackboard specials. Thankfully, my visit coincided with the appearance of a Smoked Scallop Roll ($14.99). Firm, silky Nancy’s alderwood smoked scallops joined avocado and herbaceous green goddess dressing on a buttered lobster roll that’s baked at Connie & Ted’s. This was a stupendous seafood roll, but if for some reason you still have doubts, Cape Seafood does sell a lobster roll on a regular basis.