Rains must have thinned out the crowds, but more than a dozen people were still waiting for Felix Trattoria to open at 5:30 p.m. Evan Funke and business partner Janet Zuccarini have made their fashionable Abbot Kinney restaurant a culinary destination, and while the menu’s loaded with hits, customers primarily associate Felix with house-made pasta.

Tutta La Pasta Fatta in Casa spans four primary regions. I delved into Mezzogiorno (Southern Italy) for my first taste of Strascinati ($24). These wonderfully chewy, silver-dollar shaped pasta shapes resembled orecchiette (small ears). Funke’s team tossed a generous serving with pesto cime di rapa (turnip top pesto), anchovy, and pangrattato (breadcrumbs) and showered the plate with sharp Parmigiano-Reggiano and Canestrato, a milder Alpine cheese.