Kim Thai Food, aka Khanhthong Song Fung Khong, resides in La Fiesta Swap Meet food court. The setting may be unlikely, but North Hollywood is a hotbed for Thai cooking, and Khanhthong “Kim” Siharath serves some of the city’s best renditions. Yes, the photo menu has fire ant egg salad for daring eaters, plus many other potent Isaan style dishes. According to Garrett Snyder’s Eater LA story, they’re especially well known for papaya salad.

I was particularly enamored with Yum #1 ($12), a heaping plate of pork prepared two ways. Siharath serves grilled slices of fat-streaked pork butt in a shallow, tangy pool of “special dressing” folded with shaved garlic, red onion, cilantro, and more. Flavor builds in intensity with every bite and culinary momentum reaches a savory crescendo by the bottom of the plate. Garnishes involve crunchy red bell pepper strips and bright mint leaves. Each order of Yum #1 comes piled with crispy chicharrones for textural contrast and sliced cucumbers to provide cooling relief.

Dose of Vitamin P spotlights my favorite pork dish from the previous week.