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In the late 80’s, Parvin Sadaghiani opened the first Persian convenience store in an area of Westwood that’s now populated by so many Iranian immigrants that it’s alternately known as Little Tehran or Tehrangeles. In the early days, Parvin sold a hodge-podge that included sandwiches and live birds. In Farsi, an Attari is traditionally an herb and tea shop. A year and a half ago, daughter in law Ayla Heravi joined the family business. Due to her influence, Attari is now open later and serves kebabs. When asked to differentiate Attari from other Persian restaurants in town, Ayla said, “It doesn’t taste like restaurant food, it tastes like your mom made it.” In her case, that’s especially true. As always, Parvin makes everything from family recipes.

pb100001.jpgThe Attari entrance was originally on Westwood Boulevard, but the building was purchased and remodeled. The restaurant is now tucked away on a side street. You’re looking at the gateway to the tree-lined patio.

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Ash ($4.50) is a barley based stew that’s staggeringly delicious, especially considering it’s vegetarian. Ayla said, “It’s not thin, so we don’t call it soup.” Ash contains fresh herbs, white and pinto beans. A tangy derivative of yogurt called kashk is drizzled on top, joining twin pools of grilled mint oil and a pile of caramelized grilled onions.

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Kashk-e-Bademjan ($6.99) is a dish of phenomenal roasted eggplant decorated with the same toppings as the Ash. The eggplant was so tender it was spreadable on the accompanying slabs of crusty French bread.

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Another Attari bestseller is Kuku ($5.99). Ayla said, “Kuku is like a quiche. Kuku sabzi is all herbs, completely vegetarian, with egg as a binder. It’s healthy, with fluffy consistency.” There’s also a potato version, but I opted for the original, a generous portion that was sandwiched with tomato and lettuce.

As for other Attari specialties, Ayla said, “We do a beef tongue sandwich that people drive from Orange County for.” Kebabs are served during the week after 4 o’clock. Instead of serving the Koobideh (ground beef), Barg (filet mignon) and Cornish game hen with rice, they partner the meats with sangak bread, a Persian flatbread that’s delivered to Attari on a daily basis. Other accompaniments are mint, basil, tarragon, radishes, onions and grilled tomatoes.

Ayla said, “The only things we don’t make in house is the dessert. All the baklavas and pastries are delivered daily.” However, saffron rice pudding is made in-house.

The family-run sandwich shop offers much more than the name lets on, in terms of both flavor and variety. Attari’s patio is one of the most inviting in town, and the food hearty, satisfying and absolutely delicious.

Hours:
Tuesday - Sunday: 11 AM – 10 PM
Note: Parking is a nightmare, but there’s an hour free with validation at Borders.

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