The two-year barbrix odyssey ends tonight when former Campanile general manager Claudio Blotta and wife Adria debut their Silver Lake enoteca in a former schoolhouse. We got a sneak peak on Friday for the friends and family dinner, and based on our experience, it sure seems like barbrix will become a relaxed community gathering spot.

Silver Lake is clearly primed for wine. Silverlake Wine laid the groundwork with their highly approachable vision. Looking back, it was actually Claudio Blotta who hired Silverlake Wine co-owners George Cossette and Randy Clement at Campanile. Now they’re sharing Silver Lake, but it shouldn’t be a competitive situation. Barbrix should build on Silverlake Wine’s community-oriented approach on the other side of the neighborhood, serving as a complementary wine-focused bookend.

Claudio Blotta previously explained the name, saying, “Brix is the scale that wine makers use to measure sugar content in the grape. This helps them know when to pick depending on what style of wine they are making.” The bar part is obvious. And what a bar it is. The square bar resides just inside the entrance. You can see people through the front window from the street, which is an inviting touch.

Ana Henton of MASS Architecture & Design (Intelligentsia Venice, Silverlake Wine redesign, BREADBAR Century City, etc.) led the initial design of the space. It’s unclear how much of her vision remains, but the space was still welcoming, with chocolate-colored wood floors and furniture and an open kitchen with a cherry-red Berkel meat slicer on the counter. The walls were plain white, but Adria said they plan to hang photos of winemakers, which should work well. Nobody sat on the patio, but it would be relaxing to recline out front and grab a glass of wine.

Chef Don Dickman, previously the chef-owner of Rocca in Santa Monica, crafted a comprehensive seasonal menu designed to complement the Blottas’ “extensive, hand selected, affordable and accessible [wine] list.” Small plates range from $4-13. Overall, the portions were fairly generous, and the flavors were clean.

Highlights included Garlic Fried Sweetbreads ($7) with harissa aioli.

A refreshing Spring Farro Salad ($6) was served cold and incorporated Feta, mint, red onion, English peas and pine nuts. McGrath’s Farmers Plate ($7) combined simple roasted beets sweetened with saba, roasted carrots with mint and honey and pea tendrils with golden raisins. There were probably too many sweet notes, but this was a clear representation of the season.

A moist fillet of Roasted Italian Halibut ($10) hosted earthy sunchoke slivers, alba mushrooms and gremolata.

The only dish that didn’t come together was the Roasted Niman Ranch Pork Belly ($11) stuffed alla porchetta with garlic and rosemary and topped with salsa verde. The meat was fatty and the skin could have been crisper.

Dessert was especially good. Adria’s Favorite Ginger Shortcakes ($5) was baked with both fresh and candied ginger and was loaded with fresh whipped cream and tart-sweet berry compote.

Wine was unavailable on Friday, but beginning tonight, you’ll be able to open any bottle on the list as long as you order two glasses. From that point on, that wine will appear on the bar’s blackboard, available to all diners and drinkers.

CLICK HERE FOR FIRST COURSE MENU
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CLICK HERE FOR VEGETABLE & GRAIN MENU
CLICK HERE FOR FISH & MEAT MENU

barbrix is open Sunday – Thursday from 6 PM – 11 PM and Friday & Saturday from 6 PM – Midnight.

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5. Jason Michaud Opens Local in Silver Lake

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2 Comments

1. Bobby Klein, May 12, 2009:

   Amazing..three of us had dinner there tonight and it was fun, comfortable and full of life. Claudio has really made this place a winner. The food was exactly right for the spot and the hood.

   A very fair priced wine list and a staff that cares.
   Thank you for bringing this place to the hood.
   *****stars.
   And the bar is what I have wished for. Friendly and accessible.

   WOW

2. Allison H., May 27, 2009:

   I’ve already eaten here twice. I won’t stop until I introduce all of my friends to this delicious, welcoming restaurant.

   I love the cauliflower salad, skirt steak, monkfisk, wild boar sausage, and halibut.

   I was also extremely impressed with the wine list. The owner suggested a few different glasses and they were all delicious. And well priced to boot!

This entry is filed under LA Culinary Compass, Openings.