“We close at 7, so if you want food, get here in ten minutes.” It was 6:45, so we placed our order, hit the gas and raced up the 101 to reach It’s All Good House of Kabab in time. Two weeks ago, I’d never even heard of this Persian restaurant. After reading Sara Dickerman’s recent article about Persian food in NY Times Travel section, it was suddenly absolutely vital to get to Reseda before closing time. It’s funny how that works. Anyway, we reached It’s All Good just in time, but the name didn’t do the food justice.

Medhi Ghasemil has run this strip mall restaurant for over a decade. Before that, the name was It’s All Good Mediterranean Greek for another decade. Ghasemil hails from Isfahan, Iran, so he made sure to feature photos of his hometown, along with decorative weaponry and weavings, a caged canary, and walls lined with small records, clocks, cups, and teapots.

The reason we raced to Reseda was for weekend-only biryani. The heap of cinnamon-dusted ground lamb was luscious and completely devastating when encased in sangak, a buttery, pull-apart wheat flatbread.

To get a sense of the restaurant’s regular offerings, we ordered shish kabab, which was char-grilled but still juicy, plated with grilled tomatoes and onions on fluffy saffron-dusted basmati rice.

It’s All Good House of Kabab delivered one of my favorite Persian meals to date, and it was a rush job.

I eventually returned to Reseda during the day and took my time. Kubideh Combination ($12.79) showcased luscious ground beef and chicken kebabs. I also tried Hamus ($6.49), a surprisingly spicy garbanzo bean, tahini and olive oil dip.

It’s All Good House of Kabab also serves rarely seen Persian specialties Dizi ($18.27) and Kale Pache ($24.66), but they didn’t offer either dish because the man who makes those dishes was on vacation. Thankfully, even when this family-run restaurant isn’t at full strength, they still excel.