At the end of December, the majority partner of Triumphal Palace transformed the lauded Alhambra restaurant into Lunasia Chinese Cuisine. Back then, Tony C. from SinoSoul was nice enough to help overcome my language barrier, calling on my behalf to learn that Lunasia retained the chef who elicited three stars from LA Times critic S. Irene Virbila. His discovery motivated a dim sum journey. Some of Lunasia’s dishes were every bit as good as Triumphal Palace, and two fell short, but Lunasia still resides near the top of L.A.’s highly competitive dim sum scene.

Cart service frequently sacrifices dim sum freshness and increases frustration; the prized plate inevitably arrives as soon as you pay the check. Lunasia’s sprawling 87-item checklist was populated with some pedestrian options, and many others that were unique. Prices ranged from S ($1.98) to Kit ($6.88).

Shrimp Har Gow ($2.98) were definitely respectable, with thin skins and plump shrimp.

Lunasia’s B.B.Q. Pork Buns ($1.98) weren’t the best in the San Gabriel Valley, but they were warm and sticky and the minced meat wasn’t candy sweet or gelatinous.

Pan-Fried Pot Stickers ($2.98) featured thin skins that were blistered and oily in all the right ways. Unfortunately, the filling could have used more pork and less vegetable filler.

Durian Pastries ($2.98) were astoundingly good, with flaky, buttery pastry and creamy durian custard that thankfully didn’t impart too much of the fruit’s famously pungent stench.

Sauteed Eggplant ($5.88) was so tender it was practically spreadable. Yes, the light brown sauce could have used more kick, but the texture was just right when paired with crunchy strips of bamboo and scallions.

Pan-Fried Turnip Cake in X.O. Sauce ($5.88) was likely Lunasia’s best dish. The moist turnip cakes were seared in a wok at high heat with the famous brown sauce that hosted the unmistakable flavor of dried seafood.

Lunasia’s only major letdown was the Enoki Mushroom Roll ($2.98), an unappetizing clump of under-seasoned mushrooms paired with limp strips of sea cucumber.

BBQ Pork was undoubtedly Triumphal Palace’s best option, even though it never made the dim sum menu. At Lunasia, it’s on the menu, but somehow Smoked Pork Shank ($5.88) sounded like a better idea. It wasn’t. the cool, thin-sliced shank was fine, especially the crunchy outer layer of fat/cartilage. The tangy dish of red vinegar helped to cut the pork’s richness, but Lunasi’s dish wasn’t nearly as memorable at the predecessor’s pork.

Leading up to the meal, it was interesting to study Lunasia’s dinner menu. Their Cantonese cuisine clearly becomes more ambitious as the day deepens, featuring appetizers like deep-fried young squab, wine-preserved pig tongue and preserved chicken feet with salt ginger sauce. If you’re willing to order in advance, it’s even possible to experience stewed turtle soup ($68), Japanese supreme crown abalone ($68) and roasted whole suckling pig ($188).

It was somewhat surprising to see that Lunasia prepares Shark’s Fin Dumpling. Yao Ming would be pissed. The NBA star is an activist for shark preservation, railing against Chinese fishermen who cut off the prized fins and leave the predators for dead in the ocean.

Lunasia’s dim sum was hardly perfect, but the tastes and menu were clearly promising enough to justify a return visit.

Related Posts

1. Triumphal Palace (Dim Sum) – Alhambra, CA [CLOSED]
2. Alondra Hot Wings Coming to Alhambra
3. Noodle House – Monterey Park, CA – July 16, 2008
4. Yi Mei Chinese Pastries – Monterey Park, CA – April 28, 2009
5. Bamboodles – San Gabriel, CA – Sunday, January 11, 2009

1. Pingback: » Pepe Sierra (TransMilenio) Kingdom of Heaven on May 4, 2009
2. Pingback: May Get Sum Dim Sum Ride - Lunasia Chinese Cuisine on May 11, 2009
3. Pingback: Twitter Trackbacks for Food GPS » Blog Archive » Lunasia – Alhambra, CA - April 19, 2009 [foodgps.com] on Topsy.com on August 24, 2009

13 Comments

1. MyLastBite, April 28, 2009:

   Wow… those Durian Pastries look amazing.

2. Jeff Chiang, April 30, 2009:

   Tried this place. Not as good as I expected. The prices seem a bit steep compared to other places. Higher level dim sum food items are quite expensive. Do not plan to return as the quality has gone down and prices have gotten too high.

3. Flying Pigeon LA, May 8, 2009:

   Thanks for writing this review of the refurbished Lunasia restaurant. We’re taking a crew of cyclists this coming May 17th to check them out!

   You’re welcome to join us again, if you like.

4. Joshua Lurie, May 8, 2009:

   Hope you like Lunasia. Make sure to double down on durian pastries and pan-fried turnip cake in XO sauce. Skip those enoki rolls for sure. I’m tripling up on eating events tomorrow, so I might be comatose on Sunday morning, but that would be fun to join Flying Pigeon.

5. GK, October 4, 2009:

   Have been going there couple times and love their food, till today. THey changed their menu and removed many good innovative dim sum dishes. Now they are just an average dim sum restaurant, nothing more. Good there if you are already in the ‘hood. If not, don’t waste your gas money.

6. Joshua Lurie, October 4, 2009:

   GK,

   Thanks for the update. Sorry to hear about the changes at Lunasia. I’m interested to check out the new menu to see just how far gone their dim sum has become.

7. wilman, October 13, 2009:

   the same as other dim sum; only the environment is better.

8. wilman, October 13, 2009:

   seafood village in arcadia is cheaper and have same quality of food, dim sum dishes all are 1.68 mon-friday

9. hugo, October 31, 2009:

   Price charge too much on party; food quality is average.

10. Joshua Lurie, October 31, 2009:

    Hugo,

    I received several reports that Lunasia’s food quality has gone downhill. I hope that’s not the case, since the restaurant was leading the dim sum charge in the SGV.

11. kelvin moo, January 23, 2010:

    The environment is nice; but food is pricy. The quality of food is dropping. My Co-workers have food posioing in there

12. wilson, January 23, 2010:

    The best food in usa. i am willing to pay higher for its quality. I almost visit this restaurant 4 days a week; and the quality is over 100%. I encourage u guys go there have dinner; lobster is the best that i ever had. The waiter is handsome and polite.

13. ted, January 23, 2010:

    got food posioning in ther last week; i am not going again

This entry is filed under California, Chinese, Dim Sum House, Los Angeles, San Gabriel Valley, Southern California.