The Colorado River winds through Austin, leading to legendary barbecue restaurants.
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My father attended grad school at the University of Texas in the late ‘60s, long before urban sprawl began encroaching on the surrounding Hill Country. Amazingly, many of the same restaurants that were available to him 40 years ago are still going strong This is my round-up of top barbecue joints in Texas Hill Country and points east, based on six trips to Austin.
Cooper’s Old Time Pit Bar-B-Que – Llano, TX
Each massive mesquite smoker holds trays of spice rubbed pork tenderloin, lamb ribs, brisket, pork chops, sausage, chicken and ribs. The pitman will ask if you want “sauce.” You do, so he’ll spear your desired chunks of meat and dip them in a bucket of sauce before tossing them on a plastic tray. Take the heavy tray inside for weighing and carving. Walls hold the requisite amount of deer heads, plus a lynx poised to pounce on diners. Each slice of brisket features a nice smoke ring, not too much fat and plenty of smoky flavor. The chicken was tremendous, lacquered and luscious. If the bird had crisper skin, it may have achieved poultry perfection. The “big chop” was similarly outstanding, peppery and moist. Sausage links feature nice snap and finely chopped cole slaw is crisp, without too much corrupting mayo.
Black’s Barbecue – Lockhart, TX
The oldest barbecue house in Texas that’s been continually operated by the same family dates to 1932. As in most central Texas barbecue establishments, smokers are accessed using a weighted pully system. Here, the black smokers are housed in red brick. A pit man wields a cleaver and a knife. On our visit, we scored a sausage link, brisket, pork ribs and pork loin, along with a dish of the house barbecue sauce. The sausage was coarse and peppery and the brisket was slightly fatty, but that translated into unbelievable flavor and fork tenderness. The pork ribs had a nice chew to them, and the pork loin, available only on weekends, had a gamy tenderness.
Crosstown BBQ would have made my list, but the “downtown” Elgin restaurant was a recent barbecue casualty since our last Hill Country visit.
Of course people will complain that any Texas Hill Country list should include Snow’s BBQ, the “best BBQ in Texas.” Sadly, the closest I’ve come to Lexington is getting Snow’s over-nighted for my family’s most recent New Year’s Eve celebration. Clearly, there’s still eating to do, but at this stage, there aren’t many gaps left in my Hill Country education.
Blog Comments
Rick
March 26, 2016 at 12:00 AM
What?
Black’s sells brisket with a Kansas City substitute taste? They can’t cook a brisket that tastes good by itself any more. Black’s was the the last bastion of pure Texas BBQ and now they pour sugary tomato sauce over a beautiful piece of beef like everybody else. Take me lord. I’m ready to go.
Randy Klein
January 1, 2015 at 7:30 AM
The Salt Lick has gone commercial. That is they have a stainless steel gas powered cooker behind the restaurant. The kitchen is for looks. Although you can still cook mighty fine que in a gas powered woodsmoke assist unit it will never be the same. A stick burner is the best!
Joshua Lurie
January 1, 2015 at 9:23 AM
Randy,
The last time I was at The Salt Lick, it did feel like a barbecue theme park. I’d still take this over most barbecue, but they wouldn’t make my Top 5 at this stage.
Al Young
July 5, 2013 at 5:54 PM
visited Austin, Buda,Wimberly. Went to Salt Lick during the week. We were disappointed. Had not been in several years. 1st experience was good, but something has happened and not for the best. Heard the “old folks” turned over to son? not as good.
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robert
December 23, 2012 at 8:02 AM
The Salt Lick has really gone down in quality over the last five years. If you go, do not go on the weekend and that will improve your chances of getting decent meat. If you get the all you can eat, the second round of meat will not be as good as the first.
Franklin in Austin is the best brisket and rib combination we have ever eaten — and yes, we have been to Snow’s twice.
Cooper’s is OK, but do not get the pork loin or the chop unless you like eating meat with a lot of sauce because it will be dried out by the time you get there.
The bbq in nearby Castell on Saturday afternoon is just as good as Cooper’s, but they have a limited selection.
Mueller’s still is spot on with most of what they cook, but it is not in the Hill Country.
Black’s is OK, but we prefer Smitty’s. Neither are in the Hill Country.
Snow’s is great, but it is not in the Hill Country, just sayin.
Opie’s out by Krause Springs is really good, but do not go on a Sunday.
Joshua Lurie
December 24, 2012 at 2:03 PM
Robert,
Thanks for sharing your opinions. My last meal at The Salt Lick was the weakest of all my visits, but was still better than most spots in the area. I’ll have to try the BBQ in Castell and Opie’s, but won’t go on Sunday.
Joshua Lurie
July 19, 2011 at 9:43 AM
Looking at this after my recent trip to Austin, it’s clear that Snow’s belongs in the Top 5. What to do, what to do…
Lou Ann
March 31, 2011 at 3:07 PM
I “ate” at Cooper’s a couple of years ago. Mostly I ate the beans. The meats looked liked they were pressure cookered somewhere behind the scenes and plopped on a grill for some marking. I got a sausage and some kind of very thick chop, but didn’t eat more than a couple of bites. Cobblers were like canned cobbler. Beans were soupy, not spicy, but OK. My standard when I lived in Austin 20 years ago were County Line, Salt Lick, and some little place near Luling.
Brian Pena
July 9, 2010 at 6:08 PM
1st time Salt Lick visitor at Driftwood, Ribs and Sausage, yes sir!
George S
March 10, 2010 at 5:49 AM
I want to spend my last days on this planet at the table closest to the fire at Salt Lick surrounded by mountains of meat!!! I will die a very happy person.
Joshua Lurie
March 10, 2010 at 12:01 PM
George. I’m with you. Prop me up against The Salt Lick’s pit and I’ll gladly shovel burnt ends into my mouth until I burst.
Brandon
July 29, 2009 at 4:13 PM
Going to TX in October, I’ll have to visit one of these. I wasnt hungry. Until I just saw this article. MMMmmmm thanks!
Lauren Brand
July 29, 2009 at 2:36 PM
AWESOME Article Josh! I am from TX and I’ve eaten at many of these places. I’m getting married in Austin in Sept. and my rehearsal dinner is at the legendary Stubbs BBQ in Austin. One place missing from your list is Zimmerhanzel’s in Smithville, TX. This is, IMHO, the BEST bbq place on earth!
Joshua Lurie
July 29, 2009 at 2:38 PM
Lauren,
Glad to hear a Texan approves of my round-up. I’ve read about Zimmerhanzel’s but haven’t had the chance to eat there…yet. That will change. Thanks for the tip.